Why it is worth spending an afternoon on Roosevelt Island

A national park packed full of art, and a cool cable car.

I stumbled across Roosevelt Island completely by accident. I was out for an early morning (read utterly jetlagged) power walk in Midtown New York and found myself walking under what I now realise is an iconic cable car. Never one to ignore something that could be interesting, I googled Roosevelt Island and thought, that’s worth half an hour of my time.

Well. If I spent an hour there, I spent three. It was an utterly wonderful afternoon of fresh air, a cool form of transport, cats and some history. One of the things I appreciated about the Island after a week in New York City was the fact it was quieter than the rest of the city and is now home to the Four Freedoms Park which is named after the 1942 State of the Union.

Why is Roosevelt Island important?

Roosevelt Island has a mixed history. It was known as ‘Welfare Island’ colloquially to New Yorkers in the 1900s, as it was home to prisons, hospitals and almshouses.

Many of these buildings no longer exist, but covered in Ivy you can find the Smallpox hospital which was where people in New York who contracted Smallpox were quarantined until a vaccine was found. The Smallpox hospital is crumbling so you cannot look around it, but it has been stabilised and serves as a reminder of the advances which have taken place in medicine over the last 150 or so years.

Nowadays, the Island pays homage to America’s longest serving president – Franklin D. Roosevelt (FDR) and combines housing, buildings belonging to Cornell University, corporate training offices and a national park with its own wildlife ecosystem and some pretty cool art.

How do you get to Roosevelt Island?

Roosevelt Island is located in the East River that runs between Manhattan and Queens. The most well-known way to get to the Island is via the cable car. This runs approximately every 10 minutes from the corner of 2nd Avenue and 59th Street – by the Queensboro Bridge. Each way it costs $2.75.

Red cable car suspended above the street with the words Roosevelt Island on it in white text

Roosevelt Island also has its own Subway station on the F line which you can get to from Manhattan and Queens. To travel via either Cable Car or Subway you can use contactless payment and Apple (or Google) Pay or the metro card.

Alternatively, there is an NYC ferry and a bus from Queens, but really get the cable car. It’s cool.

What is there to do?

enjoy the free art scattered across the island

This small island is home to a range of sculptures, galleries and at the right time of year, pop-up art.

My favourite was Nellie Bly’s ‘The Girl Puzzle‘ which is at the very north of the island, by the lighthouse. This set of sculptures give you the faces of four women cast in bronze. Each sculpture gives a voice to women from different underrepresented communities.

A small and large bronze sculture in an open air setting with a sign in front of them explaining it.
While I live I hope by Nellie Bly on Roosevelt Island

In addition to Nellie Bly, the sculptures by Tom Otteness, ‘A Marriage of Money and Real Estate’ pop out of the East River and are easy to miss, but provide a brilliant social commentary on life in the USA.

a penny and a house sculpture in the water with rocks and skyscrapers around them.
Easy to miss but worth looking for – Tom Otterness’ 1996 sculpture.

Keeping with the theme that every piece of art on Roosevelt Island has a social message, the FDR Hope Memorial acts as a reminder that the president was and still is an inspiration to people living with disabilities. The memorial shows FDR in a wheelchair reaching out to a young girl and charts the history of the Island and of FDR’s political career.

Roosevelt Island is not only home to outside sculptures. In the middle of the Island there is the RIVAA gallery on Main Street. This gallery is small (so only takes about 20 minutes to go around) and showcases the work of artists on the island, with exhibitions rotating every 2-3 months.

Visit the four freedoms park, the fdr memorial and smallpox hospital

The Four Freedoms Park is a small paved area of the island that pays tribute to FDR. The park was opened in 2012, is free to enter and has wonderful views of Manhattan. The sculpture of FDR is imposing yet clean and reminds you of his place as one of the most beloved presidents in US history.

An old building structure covered in greenery.
It is easy to imagine the Smallpox hospital as a haunted house.

The Smallpox Hospital is located just outside the park and was the first major centre in the US dedicated to caring for victims of the virus. It’s a ruin now and you cannot go around it as the structure is too insecure, but the bleak, foilage-covered bricks are thought-provoking and in these post-COVID times provide a reminder of how the virus could have been handled.

Enjoy the wildlife including the cat sanctuary

Roosevelt Island has it’s own ecosystem and is home to a number of rare birds and fish in the river. My favourite part however was the mini cat sanctuaries scattered on the island. The slightly bedraggled cats were clearly living their best lives.

Take in the Manhattan and Queens skyline

Whilst Roosevelt Island doesn’t give you the Iconic Skyline that something like Liberty Island does, it still gives you good views of the Empire State Building and the Chrysler to the Manhattan side, and the Iconic PepsiCo and Silvercup signs on the Queens side.

Everything there is to do as a visitor to Leverkusen

If you find yourself visiting the industrial town on the Rhine.

I will admit, Leverkusen is not your usual tourist location and this is reflected in what there is to do. I was there on business travel (and I suspect if you’re reading this you’ll be headed there too for this reason) and stayed at Hotel Arkade which had the most friendly, attentive staff you could ask for. They remembered my name, carried my case to my room with me, and provided a great breakfast (and it was cheaper than what my colleagues paid staying up the road).

I had asked on a number of Facebook Groups (I originally drafted this as “Chat Rooms” and then realised how old that made me) what there was to do in Leverkusen. Every person replied, “go to Koln”. Not only did I not have the time to go into Koln, but I am stubborn and I was determined to uncover what Leverkusen has to offer. So, here goes.

Before I dive in, a note on mobile phone signal

My work phone is on Vodafone and this worked fine. My personal is on EE. I couldn’t even get 3G signal. This was good as it meant I could be immersed in what was on offer, but it also meant I couldn’t load Google Maps to help me uncover a hidden gem.

Go for a walk along the Rhine

The Rhine is one of my favourite rivers in the world and I’ve explored many places along its path. In Basel you will find a clean and picturesque section of the Rhine. In Leverkusen the river was very high and the surrounding grass was sodden. There were some beautiful rabbits hopping through the undesignated marshland. The downside of this marshy terrain? I couldn’t tell firm grass from a sudden slump. RIP my Allbirds. I also somehow managed to ingest water. This is not the place on the Rhine to do this, your stomach won’t thank you.

Potter around the Japanese Garden

a red japanese-style gate and notice board, surrounded by trees.

The Japanese Garden is a brilliantly landscaped corner of the ChemPark. I think it’s designed to give Bayer employees a bit of a place to unwind but it’s worth visiting even if you aren’t visiting Bayer. It is adorned with small features and contains a number of statues and it’s free to go round. Win.

See the Bayer Kreuz

It really is worth it just for the scale of the image.

LIT UP CROSS SAYING BAYER BEHIND A LIDL AT NIGHT

The Bayer Kreuz hits you as enter the town and can be seen from multiple locations. It really is an incredible site to behold as it looks as if it is just floating in the air. This photo was taken from about half a mile away. I’d also recommend the Aldi if you’re bringing back treats for colleagues. Great Haribo selection.

Visit the Bayarena (Bayer Leverkusen’s Ground)

LOBBY OF THE BAYER LEVERKUSEN HOTEL RESTAURANT WITH LOTS OF SHIRTS AND A CUT OUT OF A FOOTBALL PLAYER

I only managed this in the evening as sadly they weren’t playing. I’ve got to say, great stadium restaurant and not as intense as some I’ve visited it. We got a glimpse of the pitch, ate surrounded by football shirts and most importantly had a bloody brilliant Currywurst. The wine however was disappointing as everything was a Riesling blend, and I’m a dry wine drinker. This did me well as it meant I went hard on the sparkling water.

If you have time, tours of the Bayarena are available and of course tickets can be acquired for games, but they are not the easiest to come by.

Enjoy some non-German food

Sadly there is not much traditional German food in Leverkusen. My hotel manager recommended one of the Italian places. Feeling too tired (lazy) to walk 100 meters, I went for the closer TexMex. I’ll be honest, the Germanic interpretation of TexMex probably wasn’t something missing from my life. There’s a large Balkans community in Leverkusen so you’d be better served going to one of the Balkans cafes or bakeries. That or Kamps Bakery which in my opinion you can never go wrong with.

Map me with Wonderlog

Map embed currently isn’t working on roabouttown, but if you’re a wanderlog user, you can download this route here.

Note, I am recommending Wonderlog as a travel planning app as I have been gifted a lifetime subscription to the app.

Save me for later

FOUR IMAGES OF LEVERKUSEN
JAPANESE GARDEN IN LEVERKUSEN

How to spend a day in Darmstadt

The German cultural gem you’ve probably never heard of

Darmstadt is a medieval town that is now home to heavy industry and punctuated by a number of art nouveau buildings. It is located in central-west Germany about 20km from Frankfurt. Like Frankfurt, it is home to a number of major German companies and tends to attract business travellers more than tourists. With this in mind, you are unlikely to find yourself in Darmstadt unless you have to visit a pharmaceutical company or the university.

Never one to turn down the opportunity to see somewhere new, I opted for the first flight to Frankfurt on a Sunday morning and spent the day exploring, eating, and demonstrating the major failing of the British school system: my grasp of another European language (no, 1000+ days of Duolingo doesn’t mean you can speak German, shocker).

One of the fascinating things about Darmstadt is it is the 10th most expensive city in Germany to live in, yet there is so much visible deprivation (unlike in Berlin where it is much more hidden). Two examples I still cannot shake – on my way from (the wrong) train station to my hotel, my taxi driver eagerly pointed out the prostitute by the side of the road and the soundtrack to my walk into the town centre from the men living on the mattress on the side of the road. A real contrast to the structural beauty around.

A little history of Darmstadt

Darmstadt was awarded a town charter in 1330 and became part of Hessen-Darmstadt in 1576. It is most well-known for its art nouveau buildings and commitment to culture.

Darmstadt was the main city in Hesse until 1919 when Weisbaden took over (it now hosts the regional parliament). If you search for the history of Darmstadt, you find tales awfully like many other major German cities including persecution of Jewish communities from the Sixteenth to the Twentieth century.

Darmstadt is rare in the respect it has been awarded both a City of Science and City of Art status. Today, this is reflected in the fact it is home to the UNESCO World Heritage “Mathildenhöhe Darmstadt” (an artists colony, on my list for next time) and the European Space Agency, a lot of tributes to JFK and a number of pharmaceutical companies as well as a global university.

Darmstadt Technical University is over 150 years old and it is one of the leading technical universities in the world.

Stop one: Frankfurt

To get to Darmstadt its likely you will fly into Frankfurt. Having arrived before 9am, I couldn’t get the train through the city without stopping to see the neue alt-stadt and indulge in coffee and a pastry. As nothing was open, it didn’t warrant a post in itself, but definitely worth a stop.

My logistics:

  • I flew British Airways from LHR
  • I stayed at Martim Hotel*
  • I got around on foot or via public transport

What is the neue alt-stadt?

The neue alt-stadt was completed in 2019 and replaces a set of beautiful buildings that were destroyed by allied bombing during the Second World War. The building project that led to the neue alt-stadt saw 20 buildings re-built and 15 buildings refurbished or restored. The buildings in the neue alt-stadt has been designed to mimic the art-nouveau style which was so popular in late nineteenth century Germany.

Frankfurt Neue Alt-Stadt

The neue alt-stadt includes a cathedral, cafes, museums and obligatory gift shops. Critics say it is too clean to be an old town (well duh, it is only a few years old) but I thought it was fabulous. It was built to a precise blue print and it looks to the untrained eye, as authentic as other art nouveau cities in Europe.

Travelling between Frankfurt and Darmstadt

Frankfurt and Darmstadt are very well connected. Frankfurt am Main has regular trains to Darmstadt and there is also a regular bus route that takes about 3o minutes and costs less than 10 Euros.

Stop two: Hessisches Landesmuseum Darmstadt

Hessisches Landesmuseum Darmstadt has to be one of the most eclectic I have visited. It was packed with religious paraphernalia, Japanese ceramics, artifacts from the rulers of Hesse, and taxidermy. A whole wing of taxidermy (and other natural history artifacts but none as fascinating as the taxidermy).

Woman on a tortoise
a woman mounting a gold tortoise – what else do you need on a Sunday?
Wild Boar Taxidermy
Wild Boar Taxidermy. No words.

A couple of things to note on Darmstadt museum. Despite it being a regional museum, it was the size of many national museums and had a range of language guides and temporary exhibitions to match.

Stop three: lunch in the Marktplatz

Statue in Darmstadt Marktplatz
People in Darmstadt have a good sense of humour

Like so many cities in continental Europe, Darmstadt has a magnificent market square (Marktplatz) which is adorned with local restaurants and cafes, each with their own take on the local cuisine.

I opted for a cafe on the square and had a local specialty of potato cakes topped with smoked salmon and salad. It was perfect for the warm day.

Stop four: Exploring the Herrngarten and Prinz George Garten

Tucked away behind the Hessisches Landesmuseum is the Herrngarten, a sprawling city park featuring blossom-filled trees (I was there in April), statues and monuments, two kids play areas and a fabulous walled rose garden the Prinz George Garten.

Monument in Herrngarten
Prinz George Garten Fountain Darmstadt

Even though it was notably busy, I found the Herrngarten a good place to stop, take in the surroundings and enjoy a bit of my book.

Stop five: take in the architecture of the city

In addition to the aforementioned Mathildenhöhe the city of Darmstadt is a perfect place just to walk and take in the buildings.

Darmstadt City Building

The main city centre is adorned with art nouveau, but there are other wonders including an apartment building – the Waldspirale – that looks a bit like a magic eye puzzle and university buildings that are impressive for the more brutalist take on things, like the JFK building below.

JFK Haus Darmstadt

*This post contains affiliate links, if you use one to make a purchase, I will get a small commission at no cost to you. Please note, I only link to things I have done and would do again.

A day in Darmstadt
A day in Darmstadt

Tips and tricks for the business traveller

Corporate travel sounds incredibly glamorous but in reality, it’s a mixed bag – the privilege of going to other countries on someone else’s time and the potential to turn colleagues into friends is often outweighed by the long hours, time away from loved ones or frustration.

As I was writing this, I became painfully aware of the middle-class privilege it shows, so don’t hate on me for this. However, most of us that travel with work have probably at some point been halfway across the world, lost a weekend to travel only to spend a week in a windowless conference centre that resembles one just a few miles from home and wondered, did I really need to be here in person? You think, oh at least I’ll get to see a different country, but the hours you work and the location of your trip mean breaking out of the 200 yards between the conference hotel and conference centre takes a concerted effort.

So, in 8 years of work travel what have I learned? How can you squeeze that bit of culture in and make the trip feel more worthwhile from a personal point of view as well as a professional? I need to thank my colleague Hailey Fishel (aka Tennessee Traveller) for her input here too, as a seasoned business traveller, Hailey has mastered it.

This post doesn’t cover working vacations as that isn’t really my style. It is however Kates and her guide is here.

1. Rethink your morning exercise routine

I love the gym as much as anyone, but a power walk can be just as good for cardio and it lets you see where you are. Plus if you’re in all-day meetings it’s a great setup and can put that jet lag to good use. 

Chastain Park

2. Check the local business etiquette

It’s really easy to go wrong by simply not asking.

For example the dress code can vary significantly (especially as a woman – I had to buy new clothes to pitch in Abu Dhabi as my usual calf-length wrap dress just was not appropriate).

It is also important to know if a handshake is appropriate, how to handle a business card and how to engage in meetings – all of which vary vastly between countries. Another one that slips people up is how to address businessmen and women: in some countries it simply isn’t appropriate to use a first name – I remember a long conversation with a former colleague who had gone to school with Prince Harry and never addressed him using a title, he therefore couldn’t understand why a businessman needed to be called Mr.

3. Create a checklist before you travel

Packing for business travel is far more complex than for a holiday. To ensure you have all the technology, clothes and any gifts or handouts you need, a list is a must. Ok this one won’t help see the country but it will reduce your stress. It will help you ensure you don’t forget your laptop (which is anxiety-inducing to say the least), your charger or that important notebook with critical information and all your preparation in it.

4. Ask the local team for tips

St Gallen in the snow

Usually your local team will arrange at least one evening out with you to show you a bit of the area. For the remaining time you’re there, get their advice. The restaurants they recommend, the run route, the park or the mall might not be the ones on trip advisor but you’ll have a much more authentic experience. Checking with your local team will also help you avoid the experience I had in Switzerland of booking travel that arrived where I was staying too late to get a meal (turns out, nothing is open by 8pm in St Gallen on a Monday evening).

5. Think before you spend

It can be tempting to go mad, especially if work has said that’s ok but in reality, spending as if it’s your own money is the best way to avoid an annoyed finance team and depending on your company processes, a hefty unwanted interest payment on your credit card.

6. Sign up for Avios and a hotel loyalty scheme

Let’s face it, if you can get some points towards your own holiday, why wouldn’t you?! An Avios AMEX is a must-have. For example, if you need to buy your flight and hotel and then expense it – you may as well get points or cash back for it.

7. Tag on a day or take an earlier/ later flight

Great Mosque in Abu Dhabi
Possibly the best post-pitch winddown I will ever have!

Not everywhere you’re going with work will warrant an extra night, but even getting the early morning flight in place of the late-night one can give you an unexpected experience be it a meal, a quirky museum or a good walk or as I managed to with a later flight, the great mosque.  It’s this principle that also let me see Darmstadt in Germany in 2023, and I LOVED it.

8. Save the phone numbers for your travel agent and IT teams

Trust me on this one, you never know when or why you’ll need it… two hotel rooms not one have been booked for you, and your credit card is liable for both? Flight cancelled and you need to get home? These poor people working a Sunday can quickly become your BFF. Equally, when you get to your hotel and you get the black screen of death on the laptop you are meant to present on, you’ll be glad you took this step.

9. Learn the main language you encounter

This may seem blindly obvious but if you find you’re going regularly to a particular country or region with a common language it will help you no end to learn a little. Just because your colleagues speak perfect English (for arguments sake), it doesn’t mean everyone who works at the office of the local train station will… so if you’re lost at Frankfurt Hbf or want to get into the local office, it is helpful to be able to understand a little of the local language.

10. Make an effort with your colleagues

Drinks with Hailey

It can be really tempting after a day in meetings to lock the hotel room door, put on Netflix and sit in your PJs, all under the guise of “checking your emails”. Doing this might save you an hour back home but you will miss out on so much. Some of the best work relationships I have or have ever had are due to saying yes to the after-dinner chat, drink or walk. 

11. Make time for you

Business travel is exhausting, especially if you’re in a vastly different time zone to your usual team. I’ve done many a trip where I have essentially worked an additional half day each day because of the need to take a call, clear down emails or just review work being done by colleagues at home. Whatever it is that keeps you zen, stick to your boundaries and make time for it. 

12. Thank your colleagues who have stayed at home

There’s a good chance they’re a bit envious of your trip and they will have needed to pick up some extra work whilst you’re away. This means they’re unlikely to be open to you complaining about how exhausting business travel is! A bag of local goodies will always be welcome in the office, but in this hybrid world simply remembering to say thank you and acknowledging the impact on them goes a long way too.

13. Take a spare – in hand luggage

More disastrous than your luggage not making it to a holiday is your luggage not making it to a business trip. If you have hand luggage big enough, pack a spare top and a toothbrush.

Let’s face it, none of us wants to present to that top client in our travel clothes or want the stress of having to find somewhere to buy something before work begins.

So… what have I missed? What else should we know?

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