A national park packed full of art, and a cool cable car.
I stumbled across Roosevelt Island completely by accident. I was out for an early morning (read utterly jetlagged) power walk in Midtown New York and found myself walking under what I now realise is an iconic cable car. Never one to ignore something that could be interesting, I googled Roosevelt Island and thought, that’s worth half an hour of my time.
Well. If I spent an hour there, I spent three. It was an utterly wonderful afternoon of fresh air, a cool form of transport, cats and some history. One of the things I appreciated about the Island after a week in New York City was the fact it was quieter than the rest of the city and is now home to the Four Freedoms Park which is named after the 1942 State of the Union.
Why is Roosevelt Island important?
Roosevelt Island has a mixed history. It was known as ‘Welfare Island’ colloquially to New Yorkers in the 1900s, as it was home to prisons, hospitals and almshouses.
Many of these buildings no longer exist, but covered in Ivy you can find the Smallpox hospital which was where people in New York who contracted Smallpox were quarantined until a vaccine was found. The Smallpox hospital is crumbling so you cannot look around it, but it has been stabilised and serves as a reminder of the advances which have taken place in medicine over the last 150 or so years.
Nowadays, the Island pays homage to America’s longest serving president – Franklin D. Roosevelt (FDR) and combines housing, buildings belonging to Cornell University, corporate training offices and a national park with its own wildlife ecosystem and some pretty cool art.
How do you get to Roosevelt Island?
Roosevelt Island is located in the East River that runs between Manhattan and Queens. The most well-known way to get to the Island is via the cable car. This runs approximately every 10 minutes from the corner of 2nd Avenue and 59th Street – by the Queensboro Bridge. Each way it costs $2.75.
Roosevelt Island also has its own Subway station on the F line which you can get to from Manhattan and Queens. To travel via either Cable Car or Subway you can use contactless payment and Apple (or Google) Pay or the metro card.
Alternatively, there is an NYC ferry and a bus from Queens, but really get the cable car. It’s cool.
What is there to do?
enjoy the free art scattered across the island
This small island is home to a range of sculptures, galleries and at the right time of year, pop-up art.
My favourite was Nellie Bly’s ‘The Girl Puzzle‘ which is at the very north of the island, by the lighthouse. This set of sculptures give you the faces of four women cast in bronze. Each sculpture gives a voice to women from different underrepresented communities.
While I live I hope by Nellie Bly on Roosevelt Island
In addition to Nellie Bly, the sculptures by Tom Otteness, ‘A Marriage of Money and Real Estate’ pop out of the East River and are easy to miss, but provide a brilliant social commentary on life in the USA.
Easy to miss but worth looking for – Tom Otterness’ 1996 sculpture.
Keeping with the theme that every piece of art on Roosevelt Island has a social message, the FDR Hope Memorial acts as a reminder that the president was and still is an inspiration to people living with disabilities. The memorial shows FDR in a wheelchair reaching out to a young girl and charts the history of the Island and of FDR’s political career.
Roosevelt Island is not only home to outside sculptures. In the middle of the Island there is the RIVAA gallery on Main Street. This gallery is small (so only takes about 20 minutes to go around) and showcases the work of artists on the island, with exhibitions rotating every 2-3 months.
Visit the four freedoms park, the fdr memorial and smallpox hospital
The Four Freedoms Park is a small paved area of the island that pays tribute to FDR. The park was opened in 2012, is free to enter and has wonderful views of Manhattan. The sculpture of FDR is imposing yet clean and reminds you of his place as one of the most beloved presidents in US history.
It is easy to imagine the Smallpox hospital as a haunted house.
The Smallpox Hospital is located just outside the park and was the first major centre in the US dedicated to caring for victims of the virus. It’s a ruin now and you cannot go around it as the structure is too insecure, but the bleak, foilage-covered bricks are thought-provoking and in these post-COVID times provide a reminder of how the virus could have been handled.
Enjoy the wildlife including the cat sanctuary
Roosevelt Island has it’s own ecosystem and is home to a number of rare birds and fish in the river. My favourite part however was the mini cat sanctuaries scattered on the island. The slightly bedraggled cats were clearly living their best lives.
Take in the Manhattan and Queens skyline
Whilst Roosevelt Island doesn’t give you the Iconic Skyline that something like Liberty Island does, it still gives you good views of the Empire State Building and the Chrysler to the Manhattan side, and the Iconic PepsiCo and Silvercup signs on the Queens side.
What you need to know and a sample itenary to see the highlights
Berlin is arguably my favourite city in the world, so it’s no surprise it’s the one I have visited the most. I am fortunate to have family there who have guided me through the best and worst Currywurst, the Mauer, and some brilliant shopping… so whether it’s your first or fifteenth time in Berlin, I hope this guide helps you uncover something new. The number of times I have visited Berlin also means this – this is a bumper edition of the blog, so grab a cuppa and dig in!!
The history of Berlin
The history of Berlin is not just about the events from 1933 onwards, however this does dominate the city. One of the reasons for this is the scale of destruction that occured during WW2 means many older buildings and landmarks have been lost.
Berlin actually dates back to the thirteenth century and was a major trade hub in Europe. Berlin did not escape Napoleon’s ambitions and was captured in 1806 by the French Army who withdrew in 1809. The palace of Charlottenburg is one of the best tributes to Baroque Berlin, if this is what takes your fancy.
In the late nineteenth century, Berlin became the capital of the unified Germany and not long after (1884 – 1894) the Reichstag was built.
Berlin is very intentional about how it honours its Nazi past. You cannot escape the impact that this period had on the city – the objective of this is for everyone to face what happened in the country in a bid for it to never happen again. In a world where fewer people who lived through the Nazi regime are alive to tell their stories, this is of increasing importance. To this end, there are major monuments but there are also more subtle tributes to the period including what looks like a simple perspex square in Bebelplatz that overlooks a now empty cellar where banned books were burned and the brass plaques shown below.
the Stolpersteine were bought to Berlin in 1996. Each bronze plaque is placed outside where a Jewish person or family were taken and detail which camp they were taken to. Roses are laid each year on the day they were taken.
Places of Rememberance has been dubbed Berlin’s most unsettling memorial. The signs on the street posts act as reminders of the daily changes which Jewish people were subject to under the Nazi rule. Some of the signs you will need to google, but it is worth walking around.
The Soviet War Memorial in the Tiergarten honours those from the Red Army who fell in the Battle of Berlin
Berlin was divided by the famous Mauer in 1961 which fell in 1989. The city became a symbol of German reunification in the 1990s. Having visited Berlin since the late 1990s one thing is stark – the extent to which the east of the city has changed in this time. The West feels as if it has stayed much the same, but the East has changed beyond recognition due to the investment in regeneration.
Getting around: Riding the U-Bahn
The U-Bahn is Berlin’s metro train system, with a station on almost every corner. The network is mainly underground and connects with the S-Bahn (the more suburban service) and the DB (the national service). The U-Bahn is highly efficient and reflects underground systems in many large cities in that it has multi-coloured lines, complicated changing points, and runs until well into the evening.
Paying for the U-Bahn: the U-Bahn doesn’t have ticket barriers like most city networks. There are pay stations on the platforms where you can buy tickets – for single, day or multi-use. You just need to punch the ticket to activate it before you get on a train. You can also pay for the U-Bahn on the app (this was a REVELATION for me last time I went to Berlin).
The Airport
Having spent years going to Tegel or Schoenfeld, nothing quite prepared me for Brandenburg Airport. It is vast, shiny, and terribly run. Quite literally it is the slowest, least efficient airport I’ve ever been to. I arrived to fly home three hours before my flight and got to the gate 15 minutes before it was due to open. Thankfully the plane was as late as everything else was slow in the airport so I didn’t have an issue getting on board.
There is a feature where you can book your security slot, which my uncle encouraged me to do. Obviously, I ignored this thinking it wasn’t needed and I regretted this. It’s also worth noting a British passport is not a ticket for a quick immigration check. Old British / EU passports (mine is still valid, just!) do not work on the e-gates in Berlin anymore.
The advantage of the airport is it’s very well-connected and accessible via the S-Bahn.
A decent cup of coffee: Einstein Kaffee
Berlin, like many modern cities, has a plethora of Coffee shops. Not all of which are any good. In fact, some are really quite bad, and if you don’t know my feelings about bad coffee yet, let’s just say it’s a peeve. Especially when you pay a good €4 a cup.
So, always in search of a perfect cup, I found a phenomenal independent coffee shop on Eisenachestraße when I visited in December 2023, (elementa – it’s a stonking cup of coffee). The most commonly found – and most drinkable – chain of coffee shops is Einstein Kaffe which has 20 branches in Berlin and a spectacular blend. You will of course find what feels like hundreds of branches of Starbucks, and the blend there is as you would expect. Disgusting.
Opening hours on Sunday: a word from the wise
One thing that took me aback last time I went to Berlin was how few shops, cafes, or museums were open on a Sunday (especially in the morning but generally). Now I expect this in smaller cities in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland however as the capital city, I expected the same restlessness I get in London. I came away with a huge respect for the fact that so many in the city shunned the opportunity to make more money and opted for a day (or at least half a day) of rest.
The Berlin Bear
The Berlin Bear has become a landmark in its own right. First scattered across Berlin in 2001, they were so popular that instead of being temporary installations many similar things are in major cities, they are changed, updated and evolved. Tourists continue to love them, and they bring to life the city symbol for each generation of visitors.
These pieces of art come in the form of tributes to events in Berlin’s past, celebrations of businesses (including corporate-sponsored bears), and the simply random.
Der Ampelmann
Der Ampelmann you could call an early meme. An element of Berlin’s culture so ubiquitous that it is recreated in as many forms as you can imagine. I’ve not found a Berlin bear with the symbol on, but I am sure one has existed at some point.
Der Ampelmann started as a simple symbol on the cross-walk but has morphed into so much more. I have red and green Ampelmann Christmas decorations, have eaten green Ampelmann gummi bears and have seen people proudly sporting t-shirts.
Street Art
One of the wonderful things about Berlin is that the city is adorned by street art – one of my favourite things to see in a new city. Whilst the graffiti on the wall is the most famous in the city, there are plenty of other murals to turn heads of those interested.
Bulowstraße is a hot spot for street art.
Street art is used in Berlin as a way of confronting the past
Christmas Markets
The last time I visited happened to be at Christmas 2023 which meant there I was able to experience a wonderful array of markets and consume some excellent Gluwein. The markets were wonderful, however, the prevalence of “German-Style Christmas Markets” in the UK meant that they did not have the charm I remember when visiting Koln years ago. Yes, I’m checking my privilege with that statement.
An itinerary for your trip…
As Berlin is a large city, I’ve divided this guide into things to see on the east side and those to see on the west. It’s not insurmountable to go between the sides of the city, but it makes more sense in a short period to cluster things on either side of the city.
If you are looking for a guide purely of the locals tips, this guest post by Matti from ToursofBerlin.com will give you the truly hidden side of Berlin.
Day one
Walk the East Side Gallery…
The East Side Gallery is the largest remaining part of the Berlin Wall and I would say one of THE must-visit places in the City. The art on the wall stands as a reminder of what the city went through, and the sheer size and scale of the wall is not really felt at any other place in the city.
There is no train station called “Berlin Wall”, so you need to go to Warschauer Str and walk from there. You won’t get lost, as people are trying to sell you “genuine pieces” of the wall from the moment you get off the train there, to the moment you hit the actual wall.
The museum at the East Side Gallery is pretty cool. What is NOT worth it, however (sorry) is the “Immersive Wall Experience” which you find near Checkpoint Charlie. Save your €10 (or whatever it costs these days) and thank me later!
Alexanderplatz
Alexanderplatz is one of the main squares in East Berlin, and contains the old TV tower too. It will give you plenty of shops, cafes, and transport links, plus some pretty cool architecture and re-creations of former soviet icons.
Tajikistan tea rooms
This one is a find from my uncle. Now, when you approach the tea rooms you will be confused as they are in a redeveloped building, and from the outside you have no idea what is about to behold you. However these quirky tearooms are a firm favourite of Berliners – sitting tables and an array of tea in relaxing surroundings. Really what else do you need for a bit of a rest?
Visit the Spy Museum
The Spy Museum is a newer edition to Berlin’s cultural scene and is one of the furthest out places which you would visit, so it’s worth going there first and then working your way back towards the centre of Berlin.
I can never resist the fancy dress cupboard
The Museum brings a new twist to the history of espionage and looks at those who were double or even triple agents. Plus they had dress-up. Really, what more could you want?
Opposite the Spy Museum there is the Mall of Berlin a newly (ish) re-developed shopping centre that has a few really good spots and a great food court (Currywurst, YES PLEASE).
Checkpoint Charlie
Checkpoint Charlie is one of the iconic places in Berlin to visit as a tourist and is a symbol of the divided city. Thankfully it doesn’t take long to see, but in the daytime if you want a photo you need to queue and pay.
Checkpoint Charlie complete with mid naughties cut-off leggings.
Checkpoints Alpha and Bravo also existed, but neither are so iconic as Charlie. The original Checkpoint Charlie was a wooden hut which has been moved across the city to the Allied Museum, and the replica stands as a reminder of the restrictions Berliners faced every day.
Personally I LOVE the Mauer Museum (Haus am Checkpoint Charlie), but many don’t. It resembles a regional museum where the curator went missing. It just contains EVERYTHING you might ever want to know about Checkpoint Charlie, with little thought to the narrative or flow of the experience. For me, this was PERFECT.
If you’re hungry at this point, Casa Italia on Friedrichstraße I’ve always found pretty dependable. It gets mixed reviews online, but never had an issue…
Day two
Visit the KaDeWe
The KaDeWe is Berlin’s answer to Bloomingdales or Selfridges – a high-end department store with fashion, exhibitions, and quality food but without the vulgarity you would find at Harrods.
Like all of these iconic department stores, the KaDeWe has a magnificent cafe where you can buy traditional German treats- it isn’t what it was, but it is still an excellent experience and the Apfelstrudel mit Vanille Sahne cannot be beaten. I also found an end-of-line section in the KaDeWe on my last visit. I still couldn’t afford most of it, but it’s good to know it is there.
A few doors down from the KaDeWe is a more mid-market and smaller department store Peek & Cloppenburg, which I am quite partial to.
Top Tip: if the KaDeWe is busy, and you cannot go without cake, then MOLA is a great alternative close by.
Brandenburg Tor
No visit to Berlin is complete without a train ride to Unten-den-Linten and a visit not only to the Brandenburg Tor, but also to see the hotel next to it where Michael Jackson dangled baby Blanket from the balcony. From here, it’s easy to walk to the Tiergarten, one of the biggest parks in Berlin, and see the Reichstag from the outside (I’ve never managed to go in, it needs to be pre-booked).
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
Round the corner from the Brandenburg Tor is the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. The memorial dates to the mid 2000s and is made of large stones of varying sizes which you can walk between (not on, it’s not respectful). The vastness of the memorial is deliberate and really takes you aback. Equally the dark grey stones add a sense of bleakness that humbles you and makes you reflect on what happened. Under the stones is an exhibition room that is not always open to the public, but is worth a visit.
Currywurst at Friedrichstraße station
Currywurst is a staple of Berliners. It comes in two forms – a wurst with curry powder sprinkled on top, then with a bit of mayo or mustard or a wurst smothered in curry ketchup (which you can buy in the Penny Markt if you want to take some home). Best served with some greasy chips!
Now Currywurst is easy to come by in Berlin but it varies in quality. One of the best places to get it is at Friedrichstraße station.
David Bowie’s apartment
This is a quick stop, but the apartment that David Bowie once lived in is near Kleistpark U-bahn station. There is usually some form of memorial near the entrance to the apartment.
Urban nation
If you want a quick museum that celebrates all things Urban Berlin then the free Urban Nation on Bulowstraße is for you. It’s a quirky, neon celebration of graphic art and subversion combined with randomly spray-painted rooms.
German dinner at Lenzig
Lenzig is a German restaurant on Wartburg Straße that celebrates the best of stodgy German food. With red and white checked tablecloths, and a selection of beer and schnapps it’s a wonderful way to end a weekend in the city. They do a particularly good Flammkuchen (the German version of Pizza, but it doesn’t have tomato).
If you would like to slice something a little less mainstream into your agenda, see this post on the hidden gems in Berlin.
Berlin, with its rich history and vibrant culture, has many hidden gems – among them some rather unusual, quirky, and downright extraordinary ones.
These places provide the perfect punctuation to a tourist-trail, and will give you a flavour of the ‘real Berlin’.
Note, my guide to Berlin is currently in development – coming soon!
Thaipark Berlin: A Culinary Adventure Amidst Nature
Nestled in Preußenpark in Wilmersdorf (for now – it’s about to be moved to the surrounding streets for better hygiene), Thaipark is a bustling market that comes alive from April to October on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. With over 60 food stalls offering authentic Thai street food, including exotic delicacies like worms and insects, Thaipark Berlin is a unique experience that transports you to the vibrant street markets of Bangkok.
The Toilet Bar – Das Klo: Where Quirk Meets Gastronomy
Prepare to have your mind blown at Das Klo, the Toilet Bar in Charlottenburg. Drinks are served in urine specimen bottles, meals come in porcelain potties, and toilets double as seating options. Don’t be surprised if your chair suddenly sinks into the ground or the ceiling comes crumbling down. It’s all a show! This quirky bar offers an unforgettable gastronomic adventure, complete with good-natured ribbing from a resident comedian. Get ready to be shocked, surprised, and thoroughly entertained in this eccentric atmosphere.
Peacock Island: A Tranquil Haven with a Royal History
Peacock Island, situated in the Havel River, southwest of Berlin, is a small island known for its natural beauty and resident peacocks. They are what’s left of dozens of exotic animals that once lived here as part of a royal collection until they were moved to Berlin to found the local zoo.
The Peacock House, a 19th-century palace open to the public, narrates the island’s history and is one of Berlin’s UNESCO world heritage sites. Once a royal residence, it now serves as a museum, offering a glimpse into the island’s past. Explore the tranquil surroundings, take in the beauty, and discover the fascinating history that makes Peacock Island a hidden gem.
Computer Game Museum: A Journey through Gaming History
Dive into the world of video games at the world’s first Computer Game Museum. Opened in 1997, the museum features a vast collection of video games and consoles, from classics to modern titles, the museum offers a unique experience. Don’t miss the exhibit on “PainStation,” a game designed to physically punish players for in-game mistakes with electric shocks and whipping. It’s a nostalgic and entertaining journey through the evolution of gaming culture.
David Hasselhoff Museum: A Shrine to “The Hoff”
Step into the basement of the Circus Hostel for a quirky and entertaining experience at the David Hasselhoff Museum. A shrine rather than a museum, it houses memorabilia from Hasselhoff’s career, including his iconic red swimsuit from Baywatch. Visitors can even record their rendition of “Looking for Freedom” in a dedicated video booth.
Teufelsberg: Cold War Relics Amidst Nature
Teufelsberg in Berlin. Photo by Matti.
Explore Teufelsberg*, an abandoned US spy base from the Cold War era, nestled in the Grunewald forest. Once used by the NSA to intercept communications, this site now invites visitors to explore graffiti-covered buildings and enjoy panoramic views of the city. A blend of history and nature, Teufelsberg stands as a reminder of Berlin’s complex past.
The Stand By Me Tree: A Touching Tribute in Tiergarten Park
In the heart of Tiergarten Park, discover the Stand By Me Tree – an anonymous monument featuring the lyrics of Ben E. King’s “Stand By Me” carved onto its bark. This touching tribute, which gained popularity after King’s death in 2015, remains a serene spot in the park. The lyrics, neatly carved, serve as a lasting testament to love and the timeless beauty of music.
Schwerbelastungskörper: A Concrete Experiment from Nazi Germany
The Schwerbelastungskörperis an eyesore with a very interesting past (taken by Matti)
Travel back to the 1930s and witness the Schwerbelastungskörper, a massive concrete cylinder built by the Nazis to test Berlin’s soil for a giant proposed Volkshalle. Despite sinking more than anticipated, Hitler disregarded the results. Now a historic monument, this cylinder stands as a reminder of an ambitious but doomed project from a dark period of Germany’s history.
Kaninchenfeld (Dead Rabbit Memorial): A Tribute to Border-Hopping Bunnies
Kaninchenfeld is one of Berlin’s more unusual memorials and is a wonderful example of how the city uses art to confront some of the worst parts of its past. The Dead Rabbit Memorial pays homage to the rabbits that freely roamed the no-man’s-land between East and West Berlin, artist Karla Sachse installed 120 rabbit silhouettes in 1999. As a tribute to their freedom, these brass bunnies are scattered along Chausseestraße, near the former location of the Berlin Wall.
Ballhaus Berlin: A Century-Old Entertainment Hub
Step into Ballhaus Berlin, a historic entertainment venue that has weathered the tides of time. Built in 1905, it survived war and revolution, evolving into a hub for concerts, shows, revues, and more.
Today, it continues to enchant visitors with its nostalgic charm, hosting events like the “Boheme Sauvage” homage nights and the “Old Fleas Vintage Market.” There are even still old telephones on every table to call someone further down the room you might fancy.
Don Xuan Center: Berlin’s Asian Wonderland
The Don Xuan Center stands as a captivating haven of Asian culture drawing in visitors with a range of sensory delights. Located in the Lichtenberg district, this marketplace offers an immersive experience that transcends traditional shopping. Wander through its bustling aisles, where an array of colorful stalls showcases fresh produce, aromatic spices, and authentic crafts from various Asian countries. Beyond being a shopping destination, the Don Xuan Center is a cultural melting pot, inviting patrons to connect with a diverse community and explore the culinary wonders of Asia.
This post has been provided by Matti from Tours of Berlin at no cost to me or to him. Matti has been giving tours of Berlin and Potsdam since 2008. I have not visited any of the sites on this list, but I will make an effort to on my next visit!
*Denotes an affiliate link. This means if you make a purchase, I get a little commission, at no cost to you. In the case of this post, I have not experienced any of the places linked to, but they come recommended by Matti.
If you find yourself visiting the industrial town on the Rhine.
I will admit, Leverkusen is not your usual tourist location and this is reflected in what there is to do. I was there on business travel (and I suspect if you’re reading this you’ll be headed there too for this reason) and stayed at Hotel Arkade which had the most friendly, attentive staff you could ask for. They remembered my name, carried my case to my room with me, and provided a great breakfast (and it was cheaper than what my colleagues paid staying up the road).
I had asked on a number of Facebook Groups (I originally drafted this as “Chat Rooms” and then realised how old that made me) what there was to do in Leverkusen. Every person replied, “go to Koln”. Not only did I not have the time to go into Koln, but I am stubborn and I was determined to uncover what Leverkusen has to offer. So, here goes.
Before I dive in, a note on mobile phone signal
My work phone is on Vodafone and this worked fine. My personal is on EE. I couldn’t even get 3G signal. This was good as it meant I could be immersed in what was on offer, but it also meant I couldn’t load Google Maps to help me uncover a hidden gem.
Go for a walk along the Rhine
The Rhine is one of my favourite rivers in the world and I’ve explored many places along its path. In Basel you will find a clean and picturesque section of the Rhine. In Leverkusen the river was very high and the surrounding grass was sodden. There were some beautiful rabbits hopping through the undesignated marshland. The downside of this marshy terrain? I couldn’t tell firm grass from a sudden slump. RIP my Allbirds. I also somehow managed to ingest water. This is not the place on the Rhine to do this, your stomach won’t thank you.
Potter around the Japanese Garden
The Japanese Garden is a brilliantly landscaped corner of the ChemPark. I think it’s designed to give Bayer employees a bit of a place to unwind but it’s worth visiting even if you aren’t visiting Bayer. It is adorned with small features and contains a number of statues and it’s free to go round. Win.
See the Bayer Kreuz
It really is worth it just for the scale of the image.
The Bayer Kreuz hits you as enter the town and can be seen from multiple locations. It really is an incredible site to behold as it looks as if it is just floating in the air. This photo was taken from about half a mile away. I’d also recommend the Aldi if you’re bringing back treats for colleagues. Great Haribo selection.
Visit the Bayarena (Bayer Leverkusen’s Ground)
I only managed this in the evening as sadly they weren’t playing. I’ve got to say, great stadium restaurant and not as intense as some I’ve visited it. We got a glimpse of the pitch, ate surrounded by football shirts and most importantly had a bloody brilliant Currywurst. The wine however was disappointing as everything was a Riesling blend, and I’m a dry wine drinker. This did me well as it meant I went hard on the sparkling water.
If you have time, tours of the Bayarena are available and of course tickets can be acquired for games, but they are not the easiest to come by.
Enjoy some non-German food
Sadly there is not much traditional German food in Leverkusen. My hotel manager recommended one of the Italian places. Feeling too tired (lazy) to walk 100 meters, I went for the closer TexMex. I’ll be honest, the Germanic interpretation of TexMex probably wasn’t something missing from my life. There’s a large Balkans community in Leverkusen so you’d be better served going to one of the Balkans cafes or bakeries. That or Kamps Bakery which in my opinion you can never go wrong with.
Map me with Wonderlog
Map embed currently isn’t working on roabouttown, but if you’re a wanderlog user, you can download this route here.
Note, I am recommending Wonderlog as a travel planning app as I have been gifted a lifetime subscription to the app.
Cornwall is one of the most beautiful counties in the UK and has many more things to do than first meets the eye. I was fortunate enough to spend two years living and working in the county and have visited frequently since. I was based in Newquay, a traditional seaside town on the north coast of Cornwall where my godmother still lives. This guide is built from twenty years of visits, showing visitors around and days out with the friends I made in Cornwall. This is also reflected in the length of this post (brace yourselves).
The county of Cornwall is a classic example of rural poverty in the UK, with house prices over 10x local wages (many are owned as second homes or exist only as holiday homes), limited industry (tourism and social care are major industries) and well-paid jobs are few and far between; the average salary in Cornwall is about £10k a year lower than the UK average.
Because of how much time I have spent in Cornwall, I am splitting the guide into multiple editions; you will pick up from each edition that a National Trust membership is a good investment if you are heading to Cornwall. This post really just scratches the surface and gives you the essentials for a brilliant holiday.
A Short History of Cornwall
Cornwall (or Kernow) has a unique Celtic heritage and is considered to be one of the Celtic nations, alongside Wales, Scotland, and Ireland. It’s for this reason that the Cornish language (which is spoken still by some) bears more resemblance to Irish than English. Even in the Norman times, there was acceptance that the Cornish had a distinct identity from the rest of England.
The Tamar River is the traditional divider between Cornwall and Devon and it is symbolic for many Cornishmen – I remember one telling me he wanted to blow it up to stop any more incomers (like me) from the rest of the UK coming over. It turned out later he wasn’t even Cornish himself!
It’s for these reasons there is a Cornish nationalist movement (spearheaded by political party Mebyon Kernow) that campaigns for greater autonomy for the county (not independence mind).
Cornwall is incredibly rich in natural resources – the mid-country town of St Austell was a home of clay mines and Redruth and towns westward were home to tin mines from the eighteenth to twentieth century (the last mine closed in 1998). It is also this mining heritage that gave birth to the iconic Cornish pasty: the pastry was crimped so miners could hold it on the edge without the goods getting dirty. The early pasty would contain a corner of jam, so miners could also have a sweet treat.
When to go to Cornwall
The tourist season in Cornwall officially runs from May to the end of September, but I would recommend April and October too. If at all possible, I would avoid it in August. It’s not just the sheer number of people on the beaches but the impact the influx of people has on every element of life. For example, in August you will queue to get into Morrisons in Newquay just to pick up a loaf of bread, it can take 30-40 mins more than off-season to get between the major towns as the roads are not set up for the August influx and attractions such as the Eden Project sell-out.
Equally, if you are looking for a holiday, I would avoid Cornwall from December to February – it is cold, wet, and windy and a lot of cafes, shops, and museums are closed.
Getting to Cornwall
Cornwall is accessible by train (but be warned, these are not the most reliable and it’s difficult to get across the county by train), plane (to Newquay Airport) and by car (probably the easiest). There are two main roads into and around Cornwall: the A30 and A38. This means in peak season and at peak times of day, your journey is S.L.O.W. This isn’t an issue if you enjoy sitting in traffic jams, its more just to be aware it will happen (and to bring something to entertain kids or big kids with short attention spans).
Where to stay
Whilst a cute cottage in a Cornish village might seem like an idyllic place to stay, these cottages actually represent one of the biggest challenges to local people. Second and holiday homes have driven house prices up to one of the highest in relation to wages in the UK. If you can, try and find a holiday park or bed and breakfast. These are designed for tourists and provide more work to the local community. Equally, don’t be that person who brings all their food from their local supermarket. There are good farm shops and supermarkets in Cornwall, use them.
The Cornwall Spa & Hotel has lodges and a hotel to choose from
Hotel-wise, I haven’t stayed in many, but of those I have, I recommend the Waterwheel near St Austell, Mannings in Truro, and Cornwall Hotel and Spa in between St Austell and Mevagissey.*
What to eat
The Pasty
You cannot go to Cornwall and not have a pasty. The best ones in Cornwall are from Rowe’s or Warrens, which are Cornish bakery chains. I do however have a soft spot for the butcher on Chester Road in Newquay. His steak pasties are exceptional and worth the detour. Do not under any circumstances eat a Ginsters pasty when in Cornwall. You could get run out of town. I really cannot stress this enough, NO GINSTERS.
Pasties are integral to Cornish culture, but take a bad photo
A cream tea
Cream teas are divisive in the West Country – the order in which you take your jam and cream is tied to your identity. This is also where I am sneered at in Cornwall. I am a firm believer in butter or cream first, then jam. It just makes sense. The Cornish firmly believe in jam first.
Equally with the cup of tea, there is much room for error. English Breakfast is the tea of choice but beware of misstepping with your Earl Grey. It is not a drink made for milk; it should also not be over-brewed like English Breakfast or Assam, else it leaves a bad taste. Light brew and a slice of lemon, no sugar if you’re opting for Earl Grey.
Fish and chips
It is one of those indisputable facts of life that deep-fried white fish and potatoes just taste better when wrapped in old newspaper with salty sea air blowing, sitting on a lukewarm beach. In Cornwall they know this, but it’s also easy to fall into a trap. Rick Stein is one of the chefs who has sought to make fish and chips in Cornwall posh. This is my tip for you, if you need to go to Rick Stein’s (probably in Padstow) to say you have, then by all means do. If you just want fish and chips, find a less polished-looking shack on a secluded beach and you will have a meal that will blow your mind. Smother the chips in vinegar, relish the crispy potato ends, and know you are getting a proper English experience. Extra points if you have to sit in the pouring rain.
Saffron Cake or Buns
The Saffron Cake or Bun is one of my less favourite Cornish treats, and it’s probably reflected in the fact it hasn’t really taken off in the rest of England. You’ll find a saffron bun in any good Cornish bakery.
Cyder
You cannot go wrong with a sample of Cornish Cyder
Cornish Cyder (for American readers, this is alcoholic, not like the Cider you get in the US) and is a very specific form of the classic drink. It’s often ‘scrumpy’ Cyder – very pale and dry. Healey and Rattler are some of the best brands to sample in Cornwall. I prefer Herefordshire Cider if given a choice, but you really cannot visit Cornwall without trying a local brew.
Doom Bar
Doom Bar, from St Austell Brewery, has become one of the most iconic ales in the UK and one of the only ones I find drinkable. It is a very dark ale, and the unique blend of hops and Cornish water means it slips down very easily.
Top tourist attractions
The Eden Project
The Eden Project is one of the UK ‘Millennium Projects’ and offers a unique day out. It is located in an old clay quarry outside St Austell and contains two biomes – the Mediterranean and rainforest – each of which has the climate of plants, birds, and butterflies you would find in the respective environments. It has become a beacon of scientific research and innovation in conservation but it is so much more than this. You can easily spend a whole day at the Eden Project as there are so many activities and exhibitions including Ice Skating (at additional cost) in the winter. Be warned, it is not a cheap day out – the food is not cheap (£6.90 for a cheese toastie in 2023) and the gift shop is hard to resist!
One word of warning on Eden, if you speak to my godmother who lives in Cornwall and has been to the Rainforest and the Mediterranean she will tell you not to bother with Eden. Seen it all she says. This is true and it’s easily underwhelming if you’re better travelled, so think about Eden for the marvel of conservation it is as opposed to seeing these plants for the first time.
Entry to the Eden Project is from £33 for an adult and can be booked in advance online or bought on-site. In peak times, prices increase and the project does sell out so advanced booking is encouraged.
Lands End
So, the thing about Lands End is, unless you go for a walk it really is just a signpost on the southernmost part of the UK with a gift shop. This doesn’t mean it isn’t cool to see it, but I do need to manage your expectations of what there is and is not to see. There used to be a Dr. Who experience, but that closed in 2017. This photo is older than that.
Lost Gardens of Heligan
The Lost Gardens of Helligan is a sprawling 200-acre conservation area near St Austell in Cornwall, which was restored by Sir Tim Smit, who went on to found the Eden Project. You need the best part of a day at the gardens, and I would recommend bringing your own food for lunch as there aren’t loads of options there. The gardens are brilliant for families as there is plenty for children to do, including a hidden beach area at the bottom of the gardens. They are also great for big kids to walk around and contain a lot of unusual plants which even if you don’t really care about plants are cool to see. There is also a unique range of sculptures across the park which help make a great day out.
The Lost Gardens of Heligan are best booked online, and adult tickets start at £18.00
St Michaels Mount
St Michaels Mount is one of those really cool islands (yes, I do quite enjoy these) which is managed by the National Trust and is home to the St Aubyn family. St Michaels Mount is accessible in-line with tide times and gives you a full day out to explore the main house, the harbour, village and church as well as some well-manicured gardens.
COTHELE
Cothele gardens are great for a moment of solitude.
In the corner of southeast Cornwall, you will find the Tudor house of Cothele, another National Trust gem with well-landscaped gardens and a brilliant cafe. Cothele has long been a mainstay of my holidays to Cornwall (I have a scar on my knee which I got as a child falling down the steps in Cothele when a bit overexcited).
Minack Theatre
The Minack is a wonderful open-air theatre located on a Cornish Cliff. Before coming to Cornwall, it is worth seeing if there is a play on as it will be an experience like no other for you.
Cutest towns
Falmouth
Falmouth is probably my favourite town in Cornwall to visit. The high street has the perfect combination of tourist tat, Cornish culture, and surf or casual wear shops (it has one of the original branches of Seasalt, a fabulous Cornish clothing brand), some lovely pubs (the Boathouse I would especially recommend for a stop), great fish food and a good smattering of history. Pendennis Castle is well worth a visit (English Heritage manages it) and comes with brilliant views over the peninsula to St Mawes.
Padstow
Padstow is one of the most sought-after towns in Cornwall, awash with second homes and children who attend private schools in London. It is also a beautiful fishing village with a working port. It takes conservation seriously and you can visit the National Lobster Hatchery or learn more about the Camel Estuary in a boat trip. Padstow is also home to exceptional food (I would try and recommend one restaurant or pub above the rest, but I have never had a bad meal there) and a selection of local art shops.
PORT Isaac
The sleepy fishing village of Port Isaac has become a bit of a tourist attraction. It is the set of ITV’s Doc Martin and is also the inspiration for the film Fisherman’s Friends.
The beauty of Cornish villages is they change yet stay the same. Port Isaac when I went two years ago looked the same as when this was taken.
Port Isaac is a beautiful village to lose a few hours walking in, eating some delicious local food, and literally running into one of the original members of the now famous folk group (we were served in one of the cafes by one member). Most of the visitor parking for Port Isaac is at the top of a hill, so it is not the most accessible village.
Bude
Bude is a fantastic location for those keen to surf, see diverse wildlife, or turn your hand to golf. It is one of the must-visit villages in North Cornwall and even has a sea pool for those partial to outdoor swimming (this is high on my bucket list of things to do when I next go to Cornwall).
St Ives
It claims to be the jewel in Cornwall’s crown, and St. Ives is certainly a special place. Located in the west of Cornwall, it is home to the county’s art community and one of the best galleries in the southwest of England – the Tate St. Ives. The town is punctuated by windy streets, which are packed with shops selling the best of British – from art, jewellery, fudge, sweets, and souvenirs. St. Ives is one of those reasons to visit Cornwall away from peak season – if you arrive after about 10.30 in July or August you will be unlikely to find a place to park and if, like me, you don’t like people moving slowly, it’s a nightmare.
charlestown
Charlestown is a quintessentially British town tucked away in St Austell Bay. In high summer it is adorned with bunting, situated on a beautiful harbour and host to a regatta and some magnificent restaurants. The best I have found in Charlestown is the Boathouse. It really stands out above the rest; I remember some magnificent fish and roasted aubergine with yoghurt dressing which I can still picture two years later.
The prettiest beaches
The best beaches are on the north coast of Cornwall. I am sure many people will dispute this and say, what about (for example) the Lizard or even Falmouth. These beaches are lovely, but not for a first-timer.
Towan Beach in Newquay is a good place for locals and tourists alike – it can host a swim in November or a sunny day with huts in July.
If it’s your first time in Cornwall, stick to the ones with the infrastructure like Watergate Bay, Fistral Beach or Hollywell Bay. At many of these beaches during peak season, locals will happily rent you their beach huts for about £25 a day. This may seem steep, but they usually come with body boards, chairs, the ability to lock your valuables away, teas, coffees and snacks. Some even have an electric ring so you can make food or more importantly, a plug socket to charge your phone.
Breathtaking walks
There are two main ‘types’ of walks in Cornwall – hilly walks, for example on Bodmin Moor or in Lostwithiel or the coastal path. If you are lucky, walking around a town in Cornwall will be less hilly, but you need to be prepared to flex those calf muscles. One of my favourite walks in Cornwall is on Lostwithiel as it is always green and lush, however the Gannel in Newquay and round to the headland is also stunning and can be done in about 90 minutes.
A night out…
Despite being a draw for hen and stag parties, I wouldn’t recommend Cornwall if you want to go partying. Newquay in the summer (or on New Year’s Eve) is probably your best bet, as it has all the cheese and cheap pubs that you would expect from a British holiday town; Sailors has always been the place to go for a good night out. Truro and Falmouth both have a reasonable selection of bars and clubs but Ibiza they are not. If you are DETERMINED you can have a good night out in Camborne or Saltash, but you do need to be determined.
And finally, the deceiving…
Gnome world
My mother, who loves a quirky museum as much as I do, dragged my poor godmother to Gnome World. It’s not a theme park like it sounds, it’s more like the back end of a garden centre, but without the good cafe and baked goods. “A few shit gnomes outside some caravans” was my godmother’s verdict. Really the woman should have her own blog.
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*This post contains affiliate links, if you use one to make a purchase, I will get a small commission at no cost to you.Please note, I only link to things I have done or places I have and would do or return to these places again.
After visiting Dublin in February, we were curious about the capital north of the border, and with a great package deal on BA, we set traveled to Belfast this October. Overall as a city, it reminded me more of Liverpool than any other city in the UK, possibly due to the red-brick buildings. It was significantly cheaper than London and much cleaner too.
Now I usually write a bit of history about where I visit but I don’t think I could do Belfast justice or write it without making a grave mistake.
What I will say is the city still feels raw with emotion and division is clearly bubbling not far between the surface.
The impact of “the Troubles” can be seen and felt. In every park, on every street corner. It’s clear that on every road in the city, someone died, went to prison, or was injured in the late twentieth century.
The barbed wire still frames many buildings and entrances, and one part of the city gates divides the Protestant and Catholic areas at sunset. Every few minutes you are reminded that this was a place that until recently was at war with itself.
Belfast is also more proudly British than most of mainland UK (if anything it reminded me of Gibraltar). There were flags everywhere and more public tributes to the late Queen Elizabeth II than I have seen on the mainland.
As Belfast is in the UK, if you are a British citizen, you don’t need a passport to fly there, just a driving license. It also means they use the same plugs as in the UK.
Day one: travel, a famous ship and some history
We took a stupidly early flight (7.30 – good thing we live near the airport) to ensure that our three nights meant four days in the City.
There are two airports in Belfast, we arrived at George Best City Airport which is tiny (10 gates) but also really well located – it was a 10-minute bus ride to the city (number 600), and that cost just £2.
From here we dropped our luggage and walked across town to the waterside, stuck our nose into the SSE arena (we would have gone to see Ice Hockey had we been staying the weekend as it has quite a following in Belfast) and tried to work out what the weird stained glass along the waterfront was.
Trip details:
Length: three nights.
Travelled by: BA flight to to George Best City Airport
This should have been our first clue: Game of Thrones. Now I am one of those people who will proudly tell you she has never watched this. It was apparent very quickly that this meant a good chunk of Belfast’s tourist infrastructure would be lost on us.
Stop One: the Titanic Museum
The Titanic Museum is the centre-piece of the Titanic Quarter – a part of the city which has recently been regenerated and now hosts a suite of entertainment, businesses, tourist attractions and a little housing. The museum is an imposing building, located at the centre of the dockyard and surrounded by a range of memorials and ways of visualising the loss which occured when the Titanic sank.
Your ticket to the museum gives you entry to two things: the SS Nomadic, the only ship by White Star Line still in existence, and the Titanic Museum.
I tried to convince Anna to re-create a scene from the film, but she wasn’t so keen.
The striking thing about the Titanic Museum is how little of it is actually about the tragedy. The museum is incredibly well-planned and is used as a very clever means of telling the story of Belfast’s booming textile, rope, and shipbuilding industries. It looks at the culture in late nineteenth and early twentieth century Belfast including how people lived and worked at the docks or related industries. They are also VERY keen to point out that the sinking of the Titanic had nothing to do with the structural integrity, building or engineering that went into the ship. There were however a number of issues, none of which could be traced to it’s Belfast heritage. Of course, there is some reference to Jack and Rose and that necklace, but it is well worth a visit even if you weren’t a fan of the film.
One of my highlights from the museum was actually the shop. The merchandise ranged from tacky (replica of the necklace that the old lady dropped in the ocean anyone…) to the damn-right distasteful (Titanic bath toy, anyone?!).
We also stopped for lunch at the Titanic Museum. I was skeptical about the ‘authentic’ nature of the halloumi fries, however, the Chicken Lasagne was very good (also not sure about how authentic to the Titanic this was, but it was tasty!).
Following this, we tried to go and see the SS Theresa (complete with some cracking canons) but she was closed for repair.
Tickets to the Titanic Museum are best booked in advance. Entry to the museum is timed, but you can visit the SS Nomadic either before or after. Tickets are £24.50 for adults, so it is not cheap, but we spent about four hours at it.
Stop two: belfast City Hall
We walked (about 30 mins) from the harbour back to the town centre and the City Hall. It is a stunning baroque building, with well-manicured lawns and memorial statues.
City Hall truly is a stunning building.
As a member of the public not seeking to register a birth, marriage or death, you can book a (free) tour of the building or visit the exhibition (also free). The exhibition was fascinating, but it was difficult not to make constant comparisons to how history had been told in Dublin when we were there. It was definitely interesting to see two sides of the same story in one year.
Stop Three: Some shopping
Belfast has a great shopping centre – it has all the chain stores you would expect in a major city in the UK lots of chain stores and some which you can no longer get on the mainland. There is also an obligatory Celtic and Rangers store, depending which Scottish football team takes your fancy. No shop however can quite compete Carrolls Irish Gift Shop.
Carrolls in Belfast was a surprise to me. It was the same chain we had found in Dublin and with much of the same merchandise that paid homage to Irish culture. Not Northern Irish culture, but Irish. I’d been indignant when at Epcot last year because they nodded to Ireland as a United entity and as one home nation. Now through the gift shops I can see how this mistake could have been made.
Day two: Murals, Troubles, Crime, Flowers.
Stop one: self-guided murals tour
The murals in Belfast are in a range of locations including in housing estates, on the sides of shops. They are authentic tributes to those who have passed away.
The murals and street art in Belfast are exemplary. The only place that comes close is Berlin and the art from the wall. There are two main ways in which you can see the murals – through a taxi tour (these are usually provided by someone who was involved in ‘the Troubles’) or self-guided. In the interests of time (and getting in our steps) we opted for self-guided, using our trusty Lonely Planet guide, combined with a bit of Google.
Of the things that stuck with me the most, the first was the gate which is still locked each evening and divides the Catholic and Protestant areas of the city. The second was the outpouring of support for both the Israeli and Palestinian communities. There are a number of murals showing solidarity with Palestine, but the current war in Gaza has led to the streets in the Catholic areas being draped in Palestine flags and the houses in the Protestant area showing their sympathy with Israel. The best explanation of these loyalties I have found is this piece from 2017 in the Economist.
Stop Two: crumlin road Gaol
A walk around the murals can conveniently end at the Crumlin Road Gaol which is a brilliant restoration and storytelling experience. The museum talks you through the Irish legal system, what people were in the prison for throughout different twentieth century. It is brilliantly guided, so the story of the gaol flows. The range of videos and holograms help bring to life how the inmates lived. It talks you through different protests at the gaol which were conducted by political prisoners and shows how the death penalty was given as a punishment too. One of the highlights of the gaol is the cartoon explainer of the troubles. It was one of the clearest pieces I saw the whole time. This might say more about me than anything else.
Stop Three: Botanical Gardens
About 45 minutes walk from the gaol is the botanical gardens which are wonderfully free to walk around (this is probably reflective of the fact they aren’t the best ever). We did however see someone and their groupie filming a rap video in one of the glasshouses and by the rose garden (where everything was half dead).
Stop Four: Ulster Museum
The Ulster Museum is conveniently located in the Botanical Gardens, is free to enter, and has an eclectic range of exhibits, worthy of the British Museum. Perhaps we had been spoilt by the Gaol in the morning, but the video about ‘the Troubles’ in the Ulster Museum is terrible. It’s weird and revolves around a slightly creepy dynamic between an older man and a twenty-something girl sitting in the museum. Seriously, if you aren’t there when it begins, don’t wait 10 minutes for the video like I did.
The board of the differences between Catholics and Protestants in the museum packs a punch.
The jewel in the Ulster Museum is (as with many British museums) not a local artifact, but an Egyptian Mummy. It’s bloody incredible that you can see the preserved body and really brings home what mummification does! Disappointingly, the taxidermy was quite tasteful and well done.
stop five: Books, Paper, Scissors
Opposite the botanical gardens is a lovely little independent bookshop called ‘Books, Paper, Scissors’. It does not stock hundreds of books, but ones which it recommends you read. Most were by Irish or American authors and many were pretty left-wing. They also had beautiful stationery. Worth the stop for a browse.
stop six: Queen Mary College
By this point we were TIRED, so did not give Queen Mary College the time it really deserved. However, the main building and campus are stunning and worth a quick look. The main building reminded me of a British boarding school and you could feel a busy atmosphere on campus.
Day three: Out of the city to explore the Giants Causeway
The Giants Causeway is a stunning rock formation which is a UNESCO world heritage site.
Our tour: Paddywagon from Belfast
We opted for an organised tour which included Dunluce Castle, some trees from Game of Thrones (pretty but meh), the Causeway and lunch at the driver’s mates pub. The tour was organised by Paddywagon (oh yes…), which you can book through GetYourGuide.com.* It was brilliant.
A couple of notes – the guide was hilarious, obsessed with the house prices in each village, but there was low-level matchoism which if you live in a Liberal bubble like we do, grated a little. He also has some great stories – apparently, the people who own Liam Neeson’s childhood home have a sign at the front telling visitors he doesn’t live there.
The Giants Causeway is really a site like no other, but as with all beautiful sites these days, the quest of other people to get the perfectly posed Instagram photo can mean you don’t get to see every corner of the causeway unless you are willing to join the queue.
The Hexagonal Columns reach all the way out to the sea.
If you have National Trust membership the visitor centre is free. I wouldn’t pay the £20 fee to the visitor centre if I wasn’t a member, but it’s worth a look if you are.
Day Four: market, a photo and home
Stop one: commercial square
Having been drawn in by cool photos on Instagram I was determined to find something to eat or drink in Commercial Square. There wasn’t really anything if you weren’t up for a pub, which in the morning I was not. Even when in Ireland.
Stop two: St George’s Market
St George’s Market is a bit of a gem. It is only open Friday, Saturday and Sunday and includes a bit of everything. If you’re a local, you can go and get fish, clothes dryers. If you are a tourist, you can get cool prints of Belfast (we got a fab pop-art image of the iconic crane) and if you’re looking for gifts you can choose from leather bags and Irish lace. We stopped for a great pumpkin-spiced latte at Drop Hopper.
On the list, but we missed…
If we had longer, we would have added two more things to our visit: the Irish FA museum and talk (about 1.5 miles outside of Belfast) and a visit to Stormont to see the Northern Irish Assembly.
*This post contains affiliate links, if you use one to make a purchase, I will get a small commission at no cost to you.Please note, I only link to things I have done and would do again.
Medieval history, stunning seafood and breathtaking landscapes
Nestled on the border between England and Scotland, Northumberland is a rural beauty with some of the best beaches Britain has to offer, lots of history and stunning countryside.
As a history buff, Northumberland is somewhere I cannot believe I have not visited before – it has more castles than any other county in the UK (it is the county that borders Scotland and was the first port of call for Viking and Saxon invaders) and it is also breathtakingly beautiful.
I spent a week in the county this September but didn’t make it as far as Hexham or Berwick which are also meant to be breathtaking.
Your laugh-at-me moment – we got to Craster Harbour and the town was filled with smoke. I was incandescent that no-one was doing their civic duty and phoning for a fire engine. I kept looking at my phone which had no signal so went to look. Yup, it was a kipper smokehouse.
A bit about Northumberland
Northumbria as it used to be known was one of the most powerful Anglo-Saxon settlements and was a powerhouse of the Christian Church in England. Its role in early Christianity can still be felt throughout the county, with many homages to the venerable bede and less famous (or mainstream you could say) saints.
Because of its proximity to Scotland, there are many links to the Mary, Queen of Scots and the Jacobite Rebellion. However, any claim Scotland had over the country was renounced through the Treaty of York. That said, Berwick-upon-Tweed, the northernmost town in the county has passed between Scotland and England.
Equally during the reformation, the Northumberland family yielded significant power and the first Duke was counted as a ruler of the country from 1549 to 1553 and is credited as one of the people who reformed the church in the UK and led it to become a protestant nation under Edward VI. The Duke also returned to Catholicism before his execution in 1553.
Today, Northumberland is home to a significant engineering sector in no small part thanks to the legacy of the Armstrong Family who bought Bamburgh Castle and are responsible for many modern inventions.
Getting around
Northumberland is most accessible by car, however you can also get the train to and fly to Newcastle.
Public buses are more frequent between the bigger towns than in some parts of the UK, but really a car is easiest. Just one warning – tractors and hay bales rule the roost, and it’s difficult to actually drive at the intended speed as the roads are very windey – you need to add on 10-15 mins to any sat nav estimate to allow for being stuck behind something. Usually a tractor or hay bale but it could also be a horse.
Barter Books combines the beauty of old architecture with second-hand books.
Barter Books is much more than a second-hand bookstore. It is one of the largest second-hand bookshops in the UK. Housed in the old train station in Alnwick (pronounced An-ick) it is beautiful, has a wonderful-looking cafe and separate ice cream shop and a wonderful model railway. The collection of books is exceptional, and there is a catalogue you can search to find what you’re looking for.
2. Take a boat to the Farne Islands
The Farne Islands have been the spotlight a lot in the UK of late as they have been a hotspot for the current bird-flu pandemic (apparently birds have been falling out of the sky). Most companies advertise the boat trips with a photo of a puffin (only actually visible in June and July so the advertising is dubious). It’s probably no surprise to you then that we saw a few shags, a ganet and some ducks but otherwise not many birds. We went with Billy Shiels as we liked the 90 minute tour option.
We did however see DOLPHINS. Yup, DOLPHINS off the coast of the UK. Pretty bloody cool.
DOLPHINS
We also saw Seals but frankly in comparison to DOLPHINS they weren’t that notable.
3. Immerse yourself in Roman Britain
Northumberland is littered with Roman remains and as a result there are a series of wonderful museums, ruins to visit and of course the legendary Hadrians Wall (which I am walking next year).
We made just one Roman stop, to Housesteads Roman Fort which thankfully is both National Trust and English Heritage. As with many Roman sites, there isn’t a lot to see. I understand the importance of funding to maintain old sites, but if I had paid the £9.50 entry I would have felt a bit cheated, especially as the museum took all of 10 minutes to go around.
4. Alnwick Gardens
Alnwick Gardens are meticulously landscaped, varied and vast. You can gaze at the water fountain display, lose yourself in the bamboo maze or
There are also a series of interactive benches (yup) and a poison garden (only accessible by a tour). All of which make a really enjoyable afternoon out.
The Lilidorei climbing frame through the Christmas Trees
You also have the option to visit Lilidorei – it’s fun, but in my opinion was just a bit expensive for what it was (we paid £19.80 each) – if it had been £10 or even £15 I would put it as a must-visit, but it wasn’t quite worth the price tag.
Cost: tickets for the Garden and the Lilidori each start at £16.50, combined tickets with Lilidorei are from £29.50.
5. Alnwick Castle
Home to the Duke and Duchess of Northumberland, Alnwick Castle is better known as HOGWARTS (or some rooms in Downton Abbey). It was the site where the broomstick training in the first Harry Potter film took place and has become almost a mecca for fans of the movie.
It is, therefore, no surprise that Alnwick has monetised the life out of this – the shop is adorned with Harry Potter merchandise and you can even take a broomstick lesson at the Castle. However, if you are non-plussed about Harry Potter, there is much more to do at Alnwick Castle including a dragon experience, additional museums and fascinating artefacts.
As Alnwick features a lot on this post, if you would prefer a brief overview, I would recommend this self-guided tour of the townto take you through the day.*
6. Bamburgh Castle
Bamburgh Castle is another for the TV lovers – it is the set of the Netflix show The Last Kingdom (no, I hadn’t heard of it either). It was bought by Lord Armstrong who seems on balance like he was a good egg (and we definitely preferred the family to the Percy’s) who invented many contraptions to help servants and set up infrastructure to help the local community. He is however given the accolade of the UK’s first arms dealer, so that’s a big cross against him for me.
Bamburgh has comparatively modern decor for a Castle
There are plenty more castles which we visited including Warkworth – these were fine, but nothing compared to Bamburgh and Alnwick.
7. Treat your tastebuds to locally-caught seafood
*Locals recommendation*
The Ship Inn, Low Newton
My verdict: stunning.
Northumberland contains a series of fishing villages which makes it a perfect location for any fish lover. I was lucky enough to try three exceptional fish dishes of hake with a creamy samphire sauce, lobster and plaice topped with fresh crab.
Whilst the Ship Inn was probably my favourite of the places we ate at, the Fish Shack was also exceptional and well worth a visit.
8. Indulge in decadent cake
Cuthbert cake which is mainly found on Holy Island (no, not the Aldi imitation of the M&S classic) dates back to 635 AD. I’d never heard of it but it’s a bit like an iced flapjack but better. Honestly, it is almost worth the trip to the island itself. Apart from this local gem, Northumberland is home to many tea shops, which means a lot of excellent cake. The next most note-worthy cake shop we found was Bertrams in Warkworth. It is dog-friendly, people-friendly, delicious and makes shabby chic look simple.
If possible, pair your Northumberland cake with locally roasted and smooth-as-silk, Pilgrims Coffee. Apparently, the locally brewed tea (Northumberland Tea) is also excellent, but I could not be parted from the coffee.
9. Go Star Gazing in Northumberland National Park
Northumberland National Park is a rare Dark Sky area which means the view of the stars is spectacular.
Long exposure camera lens meant I saw the Aurora
You can just fill up your thermos, grab your binoculars, download the stellarium app and park by the roadside to see what is on offer. Or if like us know your limitations, you can visit the Dark Sky Observatory and they’ll guide you through what you’re looking at.
As someone who can barely spot Orion’s Belt, I’m glad we went to the observatory. They showed us Saturn and Jupiter through the telescope, we saw shooting stars and they explained to me how I hadn’t found a new type of jumping star, but I wasn’t holding the binoculars properly.
10. Visit Holy Island (not an Island) and the ruined abbey
Lindisfarne is a weird division between that owned by the National Trust and that owned by English Heritage. Due to the tide times (and being stuck behind a hay bale on the journey to the island), we explored Lindisfarne Priory but didn’t make it to the castle. The Priory has an excellent museum that talks you through the history of religion on the island and the ruins are so precisely carved, that its difficult not to be impressed.
Cost: from £9 for adults.
11. Explore Cragside House
Cragside House in Morpeth is a jewel in the crown of the National Trust in the UK. The grounds cover 6 miles and it is advertised as the UK’s first ‘smart home’ and was owned by the Armstrong family (them again). It’s not difficult. to see their wealth and status from visiting the house. The decor is varied, stylish and captivating.
Now, Cragside is not cheap for those who are not National Trust members, but it is worth the entry fee. Not only is the house large, but the variety of things to see on the grounds including hydroelectric plants, a rock garden, numerous circular walks and an iron bridge make a whole day out.
Cost: from £22.00 during peak season, from £11.00 off-peak for adults.
12. Uncover one of Britain’s Best Beaches
Northumberland is home to an expansive and breathtaking coastline. Bamburgh is often considered to be the best in the county, and even on a brisk windy day, the sand dunes and blue sea were stunning.
We also explored Seahouses Beach and Embleton Bay, which not quite on the scale of Bamburgh were still worth the visits alone.
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The German cultural gem you’ve probably never heard of
Darmstadt is a medieval town that is now home to heavy industry and punctuated by a number of art nouveau buildings. It is located in central-west Germany about 20km from Frankfurt. Like Frankfurt, it is home to a number of major German companies and tends to attract business travellers more than tourists. With this in mind, you are unlikely to find yourself in Darmstadt unless you have to visit a pharmaceutical company or the university.
Never one to turn down the opportunity to see somewhere new, I opted for the first flight to Frankfurt on a Sunday morning and spent the day exploring, eating, and demonstrating the major failing of the British school system: my grasp of another European language (no, 1000+ days of Duolingo doesn’t mean you can speak German, shocker).
One of the fascinating things about Darmstadt is it is the 10th most expensive city in Germany to live in, yet there is so much visible deprivation (unlike in Berlin where it is much more hidden). Two examples I still cannot shake – on my way from (the wrong) train station to my hotel, my taxi driver eagerly pointed out the prostitute by the side of the road and the soundtrack to my walk into the town centre from the men living on the mattress on the side of the road. A real contrast to the structural beauty around.
A little history of Darmstadt
Darmstadt was awarded a town charter in 1330 and became part of Hessen-Darmstadt in 1576. It is most well-known for its art nouveau buildings and commitment to culture.
Darmstadt is rare in the respect it has been awarded both a City of Science and City of Art status. Today, this is reflected in the fact it is home to the UNESCO World Heritage “Mathildenhöhe Darmstadt” (an artists colony, on my list for next time) and the European Space Agency, a lot of tributes to JFK and a number of pharmaceutical companies as well as a global university.
Darmstadt Technical University is over 150 years old and it is one of the leading technical universities in the world.
Stop one: Frankfurt
To get to Darmstadt its likely you will fly into Frankfurt. Having arrived before 9am, I couldn’t get the train through the city without stopping to see the neue alt-stadt and indulge in coffee and a pastry. As nothing was open, it didn’t warrant a post in itself, but definitely worth a stop.
The neue alt-stadt was completed in 2019 and replaces a set of beautiful buildings that were destroyed by allied bombing during the Second World War. The building project that led to the neue alt-stadt saw 20 buildings re-built and 15 buildings refurbished or restored. The buildings in the neue alt-stadt has been designed to mimic the art-nouveau style which was so popular in late nineteenth century Germany.
The neue alt-stadt includes a cathedral, cafes, museums and obligatory gift shops. Critics say it is too clean to be an old town (well duh, it is only a few years old) but I thought it was fabulous. It was built to a precise blue print and it looks to the untrained eye, as authentic as other art nouveau cities in Europe.
Travelling between Frankfurt and Darmstadt
Frankfurt and Darmstadt are very well connected. Frankfurt am Main has regular trains to Darmstadt and there is also a regular bus route that takes about 3o minutes and costs less than 10 Euros.
Stop two: Hessisches Landesmuseum Darmstadt
Hessisches Landesmuseum Darmstadt has to be one of the most eclectic I have visited. It was packed with religious paraphernalia, Japanese ceramics, artifacts from the rulers of Hesse, and taxidermy. A whole wing of taxidermy (and other natural history artifacts but none as fascinating as the taxidermy).
a woman mounting a gold tortoise – what else do you need on a Sunday?
Wild Boar Taxidermy. No words.
A couple of things to note on Darmstadt museum. Despite it being a regional museum, it was the size of many national museums and had a range of language guides and temporary exhibitions to match.
Stop three: lunch in the Marktplatz
People in Darmstadt have a good sense of humour
Like so many cities in continental Europe, Darmstadt has a magnificent market square (Marktplatz) which is adorned with local restaurants and cafes, each with their own take on the local cuisine.
I opted for a cafe on the square and had a local specialty of potato cakes topped with smoked salmon and salad. It was perfect for the warm day.
Stop four: Exploring the Herrngarten and Prinz George Garten
Tucked away behind the Hessisches Landesmuseum is the Herrngarten, a sprawling city park featuring blossom-filled trees (I was there in April), statues and monuments, two kids play areas and a fabulous walled rose garden the Prinz George Garten.
Even though it was notably busy, I found the Herrngarten a good place to stop, take in the surroundings and enjoy a bit of my book.
Stop five: take in the architecture of the city
In addition to the aforementioned Mathildenhöhe the city of Darmstadt is a perfect place just to walk and take in the buildings.
The main city centre is adorned with art nouveau, but there are other wonders including an apartment building – the Waldspirale – that looks a bit like a magic eye puzzle and university buildings that are impressive for the more brutalist take on things, like the JFK building below.
*This post contains affiliate links, if you use one to make a purchase, I will get a small commission at no cost to you.Please note, I only link to things I have done and would do again.
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