Category: For the long haul

Best things to do in Cornwall, UK

Where to stay, what to do, and what to eat – from a (semi) local perspective.

Cornwall is one of the most beautiful counties in the UK and has many more things to do than first meets the eye. I was fortunate enough to spend two years living and working in the county and have visited frequently since. I was based in Newquay, a traditional seaside town on the north coast of Cornwall where my godmother still lives. This guide is built from twenty years of visits, showing visitors around and days out with the friends I made in Cornwall. This is also reflected in the length of this post (brace yourselves).

The county of Cornwall is a classic example of rural poverty in the UK, with house prices over 10x local wages (many are owned as second homes or exist only as holiday homes), limited industry (tourism and social care are major industries) and well-paid jobs are few and far between; the average salary in Cornwall is about £10k a year lower than the UK average.

Because of how much time I have spent in Cornwall, I am splitting the guide into multiple editions; you will pick up from each edition that a National Trust membership is a good investment if you are heading to Cornwall. This post really just scratches the surface and gives you the essentials for a brilliant holiday.

A Short History of Cornwall

Cornwall (or Kernow) has a unique Celtic heritage and is considered to be one of the Celtic nations, alongside Wales, Scotland, and Ireland. It’s for this reason that the Cornish language (which is spoken still by some) bears more resemblance to Irish than English. Even in the Norman times, there was acceptance that the Cornish had a distinct identity from the rest of England.

The Tamar River is the traditional divider between Cornwall and Devon and it is symbolic for many Cornishmen – I remember one telling me he wanted to blow it up to stop any more incomers (like me) from the rest of the UK coming over. It turned out later he wasn’t even Cornish himself!

It’s for these reasons there is a Cornish nationalist movement (spearheaded by political party Mebyon Kernow) that campaigns for greater autonomy for the county (not independence mind).

Cornwall is incredibly rich in natural resources – the mid-country town of St Austell was a home of clay mines and Redruth and towns westward were home to tin mines from the eighteenth to twentieth century (the last mine closed in 1998). It is also this mining heritage that gave birth to the iconic Cornish pasty: the pastry was crimped so miners could hold it on the edge without the goods getting dirty. The early pasty would contain a corner of jam, so miners could also have a sweet treat.

When to go to Cornwall

The tourist season in Cornwall officially runs from May to the end of September, but I would recommend April and October too. If at all possible, I would avoid it in August. It’s not just the sheer number of people on the beaches but the impact the influx of people has on every element of life. For example, in August you will queue to get into Morrisons in Newquay just to pick up a loaf of bread, it can take 30-40 mins more than off-season to get between the major towns as the roads are not set up for the August influx and attractions such as the Eden Project sell-out.

Equally, if you are looking for a holiday, I would avoid Cornwall from December to February – it is cold, wet, and windy and a lot of cafes, shops, and museums are closed.

Getting to Cornwall

Cornwall is accessible by train (but be warned, these are not the most reliable and it’s difficult to get across the county by train), plane (to Newquay Airport) and by car (probably the easiest). There are two main roads into and around Cornwall: the A30 and A38. This means in peak season and at peak times of day, your journey is S.L.O.W. This isn’t an issue if you enjoy sitting in traffic jams, its more just to be aware it will happen (and to bring something to entertain kids or big kids with short attention spans).

Where to stay

Whilst a cute cottage in a Cornish village might seem like an idyllic place to stay, these cottages actually represent one of the biggest challenges to local people. Second and holiday homes have driven house prices up to one of the highest in relation to wages in the UK. If you can, try and find a holiday park or bed and breakfast. These are designed for tourists and provide more work to the local community. Equally, don’t be that person who brings all their food from their local supermarket. There are good farm shops and supermarkets in Cornwall, use them.

lodges at the Cornwall hotel and Spa
The Cornwall Spa & Hotel has lodges and a hotel to choose from

Hotel-wise, I haven’t stayed in many, but of those I have, I recommend the Waterwheel near St Austell, Mannings in Truro, and Cornwall Hotel and Spa in between St Austell and Mevagissey.*

What to eat

The Pasty

You cannot go to Cornwall and not have a pasty. The best ones in Cornwall are from Rowe’s or Warrens, which are Cornish bakery chains. I do however have a soft spot for the butcher on Chester Road in Newquay. His steak pasties are exceptional and worth the detour. Do not under any circumstances eat a Ginsters pasty when in Cornwall. You could get run out of town. I really cannot stress this enough, NO GINSTERS.

cartoon sheet called Pasty Stickers, with 12 options of different types of pasties.
Pasties are integral to Cornish culture, but take a bad photo

A cream tea

Cream teas are divisive in the West Country – the order in which you take your jam and cream is tied to your identity. This is also where I am sneered at in Cornwall. I am a firm believer in butter or cream first, then jam. It just makes sense. The Cornish firmly believe in jam first.

Equally with the cup of tea, there is much room for error. English Breakfast is the tea of choice but beware of misstepping with your Earl Grey. It is not a drink made for milk; it should also not be over-brewed like English Breakfast or Assam, else it leaves a bad taste. Light brew and a slice of lemon, no sugar if you’re opting for Earl Grey.

Fish and chips

It is one of those indisputable facts of life that deep-fried white fish and potatoes just taste better when wrapped in old newspaper with salty sea air blowing, sitting on a lukewarm beach. In Cornwall they know this, but it’s also easy to fall into a trap. Rick Stein is one of the chefs who has sought to make fish and chips in Cornwall posh. This is my tip for you, if you need to go to Rick Stein’s (probably in Padstow) to say you have, then by all means do. If you just want fish and chips, find a less polished-looking shack on a secluded beach and you will have a meal that will blow your mind. Smother the chips in vinegar, relish the crispy potato ends, and know you are getting a proper English experience. Extra points if you have to sit in the pouring rain.

Saffron Cake or Buns

The Saffron Cake or Bun is one of my less favourite Cornish treats, and it’s probably reflected in the fact it hasn’t really taken off in the rest of England. You’ll find a saffron bun in any good Cornish bakery.

Cyder

A selection of cornish ciders to sample
You cannot go wrong with a sample of Cornish Cyder

Cornish Cyder (for American readers, this is alcoholic, not like the Cider you get in the US) and is a very specific form of the classic drink. It’s often ‘scrumpy’ Cyder – very pale and dry. Healey and Rattler are some of the best brands to sample in Cornwall. I prefer Herefordshire Cider if given a choice, but you really cannot visit Cornwall without trying a local brew.

Doom Bar

Doom Bar, from St Austell Brewery, has become one of the most iconic ales in the UK and one of the only ones I find drinkable. It is a very dark ale, and the unique blend of hops and Cornish water means it slips down very easily.

Top tourist attractions

The Eden Project

eden project biome at night
two women by the eden project biomes in the day

The Eden Project is one of the UK ‘Millennium Projects’ and offers a unique day out. It is located in an old clay quarry outside St Austell and contains two biomes – the Mediterranean and rainforest – each of which has the climate of plants, birds, and butterflies you would find in the respective environments. It has become a beacon of scientific research and innovation in conservation but it is so much more than this. You can easily spend a whole day at the Eden Project as there are so many activities and exhibitions including Ice Skating (at additional cost) in the winter. Be warned, it is not a cheap day out – the food is not cheap (£6.90 for a cheese toastie in 2023) and the gift shop is hard to resist!

One word of warning on Eden, if you speak to my godmother who lives in Cornwall and has been to the Rainforest and the Mediterranean she will tell you not to bother with Eden. Seen it all she says. This is true and it’s easily underwhelming if you’re better travelled, so think about Eden for the marvel of conservation it is as opposed to seeing these plants for the first time.

Entry to the Eden Project is from £33 for an adult and can be booked in advance online or bought on-site. In peak times, prices increase and the project does sell out so advanced booking is encouraged.

Lands End

the sign post at Lands End

So, the thing about Lands End is, unless you go for a walk it really is just a signpost on the southernmost part of the UK with a gift shop. This doesn’t mean it isn’t cool to see it, but I do need to manage your expectations of what there is and is not to see. There used to be a Dr. Who experience, but that closed in 2017. This photo is older than that.

Lost Gardens of Heligan

The Lost Gardens of Helligan is a sprawling 200-acre conservation area near St Austell in Cornwall, which was restored by Sir Tim Smit, who went on to found the Eden Project. You need the best part of a day at the gardens, and I would recommend bringing your own food for lunch as there aren’t loads of options there. The gardens are brilliant for families as there is plenty for children to do, including a hidden beach area at the bottom of the gardens. They are also great for big kids to walk around and contain a lot of unusual plants which even if you don’t really care about plants are cool to see. There is also a unique range of sculptures across the park which help make a great day out.

The Lost Gardens of Heligan are best booked online, and adult tickets start at £18.00

St Michaels Mount

St Michaels Mount is one of those really cool islands (yes, I do quite enjoy these) which is managed by the National Trust and is home to the St Aubyn family. St Michaels Mount is accessible in-line with tide times and gives you a full day out to explore the main house, the harbour, village and church as well as some well-manicured gardens.

COTHELE

girl looking at the gardens in cothele.
Cothele gardens are great for a moment of solitude.

In the corner of southeast Cornwall, you will find the Tudor house of Cothele, another National Trust gem with well-landscaped gardens and a brilliant cafe. Cothele has long been a mainstay of my holidays to Cornwall (I have a scar on my knee which I got as a child falling down the steps in Cothele when a bit overexcited).

Minack Theatre

The Minack is a wonderful open-air theatre located on a Cornish Cliff. Before coming to Cornwall, it is worth seeing if there is a play on as it will be an experience like no other for you.

Cutest towns

Falmouth

Falmouth is probably my favourite town in Cornwall to visit. The high street has the perfect combination of tourist tat, Cornish culture, and surf or casual wear shops (it has one of the original branches of Seasalt, a fabulous Cornish clothing brand), some lovely pubs (the Boathouse I would especially recommend for a stop), great fish food and a good smattering of history. Pendennis Castle is well worth a visit (English Heritage manages it) and comes with brilliant views over the peninsula to St Mawes.

Padstow

Padstow is one of the most sought-after towns in Cornwall, awash with second homes and children who attend private schools in London. It is also a beautiful fishing village with a working port. It takes conservation seriously and you can visit the National Lobster Hatchery or learn more about the Camel Estuary in a boat trip. Padstow is also home to exceptional food (I would try and recommend one restaurant or pub above the rest, but I have never had a bad meal there) and a selection of local art shops.

PORT Isaac

The sleepy fishing village of Port Isaac has become a bit of a tourist attraction. It is the set of ITV’s Doc Martin and is also the inspiration for the film Fisherman’s Friends.

two women walking down the hill in Port Issac
The beauty of Cornish villages is they change yet stay the same. Port Isaac when I went two years ago looked the same as when this was taken.

Port Isaac is a beautiful village to lose a few hours walking in, eating some delicious local food, and literally running into one of the original members of the now famous folk group (we were served in one of the cafes by one member). Most of the visitor parking for Port Isaac is at the top of a hill, so it is not the most accessible village.

Bude

Bude is a fantastic location for those keen to surf, see diverse wildlife, or turn your hand to golf. It is one of the must-visit villages in North Cornwall and even has a sea pool for those partial to outdoor swimming (this is high on my bucket list of things to do when I next go to Cornwall).

St Ives

It claims to be the jewel in Cornwall’s crown, and St. Ives is certainly a special place. Located in the west of Cornwall, it is home to the county’s art community and one of the best galleries in the southwest of England – the Tate St. Ives. The town is punctuated by windy streets, which are packed with shops selling the best of British – from art, jewellery, fudge, sweets, and souvenirs. St. Ives is one of those reasons to visit Cornwall away from peak season – if you arrive after about 10.30 in July or August you will be unlikely to find a place to park and if, like me, you don’t like people moving slowly, it’s a nightmare.

charlestown

Charlestown is a quintessentially British town tucked away in St Austell Bay. In high summer it is adorned with bunting, situated on a beautiful harbour and host to a regatta and some magnificent restaurants. The best I have found in Charlestown is the Boathouse. It really stands out above the rest; I remember some magnificent fish and roasted aubergine with yoghurt dressing which I can still picture two years later.

The prettiest beaches

The best beaches are on the north coast of Cornwall. I am sure many people will dispute this and say, what about (for example) the Lizard or even Falmouth. These beaches are lovely, but not for a first-timer.

Towan beach in newquay at low tide
Towan Beach in Newquay is a good place for locals and tourists alike – it can host a swim in November or a sunny day with huts in July.

If it’s your first time in Cornwall, stick to the ones with the infrastructure like Watergate Bay, Fistral Beach or Hollywell Bay. At many of these beaches during peak season, locals will happily rent you their beach huts for about £25 a day. This may seem steep, but they usually come with body boards, chairs, the ability to lock your valuables away, teas, coffees and snacks. Some even have an electric ring so you can make food or more importantly, a plug socket to charge your phone.

Breathtaking walks

North Cornwall Coast

There are two main ‘types’ of walks in Cornwall – hilly walks, for example on Bodmin Moor or in Lostwithiel or the coastal path. If you are lucky, walking around a town in Cornwall will be less hilly, but you need to be prepared to flex those calf muscles. One of my favourite walks in Cornwall is on Lostwithiel as it is always green and lush, however the Gannel in Newquay and round to the headland is also stunning and can be done in about 90 minutes.

A night out…

Despite being a draw for hen and stag parties, I wouldn’t recommend Cornwall if you want to go partying. Newquay in the summer (or on New Year’s Eve) is probably your best bet, as it has all the cheese and cheap pubs that you would expect from a British holiday town; Sailors has always been the place to go for a good night out. Truro and Falmouth both have a reasonable selection of bars and clubs but Ibiza they are not. If you are DETERMINED you can have a good night out in Camborne or Saltash, but you do need to be determined.

And finally, the deceiving…

Gnome world

My mother, who loves a quirky museum as much as I do, dragged my poor godmother to Gnome World. It’s not a theme park like it sounds, it’s more like the back end of a garden centre, but without the good cafe and baked goods. “A few shit gnomes outside some caravans” was my godmother’s verdict. Really the woman should have her own blog.

Save this post for later

Four images of Cornwall including a sculpture, the eden project at night, toy pasties and towan beach
Towan beach in Newquay with text over that reads 'a perfect break in Cornwall'

*This post contains affiliate links, if you use one to make a purchase, I will get a small commission at no cost to you. Please note, I only link to things I have done or places I have and would do or return to these places again.

12 ways to spend a week in Northumberland, UK

Medieval history, stunning seafood and breathtaking landscapes

Nestled on the border between England and Scotland, Northumberland is a rural beauty with some of the best beaches Britain has to offer, lots of history and stunning countryside.

As a history buff, Northumberland is somewhere I cannot believe I have not visited before – it has more castles than any other county in the UK (it is the county that borders Scotland and was the first port of call for Viking and Saxon invaders) and it is also breathtakingly beautiful.

I spent a week in the county this September but didn’t make it as far as Hexham or Berwick which are also meant to be breathtaking.

Your laugh-at-me moment – we got to Craster Harbour and the town was filled with smoke. I was incandescent that no-one was doing their civic duty and phoning for a fire engine. I kept looking at my phone which had no signal so went to look. Yup, it was a kipper smokehouse.

A bit about Northumberland

Northumbria as it used to be known was one of the most powerful Anglo-Saxon settlements and was a powerhouse of the Christian Church in England. Its role in early Christianity can still be felt throughout the county, with many homages to the venerable bede and less famous (or mainstream you could say) saints.

Because of its proximity to Scotland, there are many links to the Mary, Queen of Scots and the Jacobite Rebellion. However, any claim Scotland had over the country was renounced through the Treaty of York. That said, Berwick-upon-Tweed, the northernmost town in the county has passed between Scotland and England.

Equally during the reformation, the Northumberland family yielded significant power and the first Duke was counted as a ruler of the country from 1549 to 1553 and is credited as one of the people who reformed the church in the UK and led it to become a protestant nation under Edward VI. The Duke also returned to Catholicism before his execution in 1553.

Today, Northumberland is home to a significant engineering sector in no small part thanks to the legacy of the Armstrong Family who bought Bamburgh Castle and are responsible for many modern inventions.

Getting around

Northumberland is most accessible by car, however you can also get the train to and fly to Newcastle.

Public buses are more frequent between the bigger towns than in some parts of the UK, but really a car is easiest. Just one warning – tractors and hay bales rule the roost, and it’s difficult to actually drive at the intended speed as the roads are very windey – you need to add on 10-15 mins to any sat nav estimate to allow for being stuck behind something. Usually a tractor or hay bale but it could also be a horse.

My logistics:

Travelled: by car

Stayed: Air B&B – Castaway in Amble

Ate: everything

1. Lose yourself in the wonder of Barter Books

Barter Books in Alnwick
Barter Books combines the beauty of old architecture with second-hand books.

Barter Books is much more than a second-hand bookstore. It is one of the largest second-hand bookshops in the UK. Housed in the old train station in Alnwick (pronounced An-ick) it is beautiful, has a wonderful-looking cafe and separate ice cream shop and a wonderful model railway. The collection of books is exceptional, and there is a catalogue you can search to find what you’re looking for.

2. Take a boat to the Farne Islands

The Farne Islands have been the spotlight a lot in the UK of late as they have been a hotspot for the current bird-flu pandemic (apparently birds have been falling out of the sky). Most companies advertise the boat trips with a photo of a puffin (only actually visible in June and July so the advertising is dubious). It’s probably no surprise to you then that we saw a few shags, a ganet and some ducks but otherwise not many birds. We went with Billy Shiels as we liked the 90 minute tour option.

We did however see DOLPHINS. Yup, DOLPHINS off the coast of the UK. Pretty bloody cool.

DOLPHINS

We also saw Seals but frankly in comparison to DOLPHINS they weren’t that notable.

Seals in Northumberland

3. Immerse yourself in Roman Britain

Northumberland is littered with Roman remains and as a result there are a series of wonderful museums, ruins to visit and of course the legendary Hadrians Wall (which I am walking next year).

We made just one Roman stop, to Housesteads Roman Fort which thankfully is both National Trust and English Heritage. As with many Roman sites, there isn’t a lot to see. I understand the importance of funding to maintain old sites, but if I had paid the £9.50 entry I would have felt a bit cheated, especially as the museum took all of 10 minutes to go around.

4. Alnwick Gardens

Alnwick Gardens are meticulously landscaped, varied and vast. You can gaze at the water fountain display, lose yourself in the bamboo maze or

There are also a series of interactive benches (yup) and a poison garden (only accessible by a tour). All of which make a really enjoyable afternoon out.

Lilidorei through trees
The Lilidorei climbing frame through the Christmas Trees

You also have the option to visit Lilidorei – it’s fun, but in my opinion was just a bit expensive for what it was (we paid £19.80 each) – if it had been £10 or even £15 I would put it as a must-visit, but it wasn’t quite worth the price tag.

Cost: tickets for the Garden and the Lilidori each start at £16.50, combined tickets with Lilidorei are from £29.50.

5. Alnwick Castle

Home to the Duke and Duchess of Northumberland, Alnwick Castle is better known as HOGWARTS (or some rooms in Downton Abbey). It was the site where the broomstick training in the first Harry Potter film took place and has become almost a mecca for fans of the movie.

It is, therefore, no surprise that Alnwick has monetised the life out of this – the shop is adorned with Harry Potter merchandise and you can even take a broomstick lesson at the Castle. However, if you are non-plussed about Harry Potter, there is much more to do at Alnwick Castle including a dragon experience, additional museums and fascinating artefacts.

As Alnwick features a lot on this post, if you would prefer a brief overview, I would recommend this self-guided tour of the town to take you through the day.*

6. Bamburgh Castle

Bamburgh Castle is another for the TV lovers – it is the set of the Netflix show The Last Kingdom (no, I hadn’t heard of it either). It was bought by Lord Armstrong who seems on balance like he was a good egg (and we definitely preferred the family to the Percy’s) who invented many contraptions to help servants and set up infrastructure to help the local community. He is however given the accolade of the UK’s first arms dealer, so that’s a big cross against him for me.

Bamburgh has comparatively modern decor for a Castle

There are plenty more castles which we visited including Warkworth – these were fine, but nothing compared to Bamburgh and Alnwick.

7. Treat your tastebuds to locally-caught seafood

*Locals recommendation*

The Ship Inn, Low Newton

My verdict: stunning.

Northumberland contains a series of fishing villages which makes it a perfect location for any fish lover. I was lucky enough to try three exceptional fish dishes of hake with a creamy samphire sauce, lobster and plaice topped with fresh crab.

Whilst the Ship Inn was probably my favourite of the places we ate at, the Fish Shack was also exceptional and well worth a visit.

8. Indulge in decadent cake

Cuthbert cake which is mainly found on Holy Island (no, not the Aldi imitation of the M&S classic) dates back to 635 AD. I’d never heard of it but it’s a bit like an iced flapjack but better. Honestly, it is almost worth the trip to the island itself. Apart from this local gem, Northumberland is home to many tea shops, which means a lot of excellent cake. The next most note-worthy cake shop we found was Bertrams in Warkworth. It is dog-friendly, people-friendly, delicious and makes shabby chic look simple.

If possible, pair your Northumberland cake with locally roasted and smooth-as-silk, Pilgrims Coffee. Apparently, the locally brewed tea (Northumberland Tea) is also excellent, but I could not be parted from the coffee.

9. Go Star Gazing in Northumberland National Park

Northumberland National Park is a rare Dark Sky area which means the view of the stars is spectacular.

the aurora from Northumberland Park
Long exposure camera lens meant I saw the Aurora

You can just fill up your thermos, grab your binoculars, download the stellarium app and park by the roadside to see what is on offer. Or if like us know your limitations, you can visit the Dark Sky Observatory and they’ll guide you through what you’re looking at.

As someone who can barely spot Orion’s Belt, I’m glad we went to the observatory. They showed us Saturn and Jupiter through the telescope, we saw shooting stars and they explained to me how I hadn’t found a new type of jumping star, but I wasn’t holding the binoculars properly.

10. Visit Holy Island (not an Island) and the ruined abbey

Lindisfarne is a weird division between that owned by the National Trust and that owned by English Heritage. Due to the tide times (and being stuck behind a hay bale on the journey to the island), we explored Lindisfarne Priory but didn’t make it to the castle. The Priory has an excellent museum that talks you through the history of religion on the island and the ruins are so precisely carved, that its difficult not to be impressed.

Cost: from £9 for adults.

11. Explore Cragside House

Cragside House in Morpeth is a jewel in the crown of the National Trust in the UK. The grounds cover 6 miles and it is advertised as the UK’s first ‘smart home’ and was owned by the Armstrong family (them again). It’s not difficult. to see their wealth and status from visiting the house. The decor is varied, stylish and captivating.

Now, Cragside is not cheap for those who are not National Trust members, but it is worth the entry fee. Not only is the house large, but the variety of things to see on the grounds including hydroelectric plants, a rock garden, numerous circular walks and an iron bridge make a whole day out.

Cost: from £22.00 during peak season, from £11.00 off-peak for adults.

12. Uncover one of Britain’s Best Beaches

Northumberland is home to an expansive and breathtaking coastline. Bamburgh is often considered to be the best in the county, and even on a brisk windy day, the sand dunes and blue sea were stunning.

We also explored Seahouses Beach and Embleton Bay, which not quite on the scale of Bamburgh were still worth the visits alone.

*This post contains affiliate links, if you use one to make a purchase, I will get a small commission at no cost to you. Please note, I only link to things I have done and would do again.

Cragside Castle
the bay in Amble

Exploring the Norwegian fjords through three ports

The Norwegian Fjords are understandably known as one of the great natural wonders of the world. Many of the fjords are recognised by UNESCO as world heritage sites. They are sites for hiking, sailing, kayaking, fishing or even filming movies.

There are in fact over 1000 fjords in Norway, 10 of which are accessible by a cruise ship – which from my one-time experience of the Fjords was a very easy way to see them.

The Norwegian fjords are understandably known as one of the great natural wonders of the world. Many of the fjords are recognised by UNESCO as world heritage sites. They are sites for hiking, sailing, kayaking, fishing or even filming movies.

There are in fact over 1000 fjords in Norway, 10 of which are accessible by a cruise ship – which from my one-time experience of the fjords was a very easy way to see them. The cruise I took stopped at Olden, Ålesund and Stavanger. It was meant to stop at Hagesund but the weather prevented the fourth stop. Apparently we didn’t miss much.

What is a fjord?

According to National Geographic, a fjord is a long, deep, narrow body of water that reaches far inland. Fjords are formed when glaciers retreat. These natural formations were formed in the last ice age when water flowed into the gaps left by glaciers. Norway probably has the most famous of the fjords, but you can also find them in Canada, Chile, New Zealand, USA (Alaska) and Greenland.

A brief history of tourism to the Fjords

The first hotel in Norway (or the oldest still open) can be found in Utne, and it has been open since 1722. This was not used as much by tourists but more by business people using the ports for trading.

The fjords first “opened” for tourism in 1875 when Thomas Cook ran tours from Hull to the Hardangerfjord. This cruise route has become a firm favourite with travellers, who like me were intrigued by the scale of the natural beauty.

The fjords have also seen their share of social unrest, Trollfjord was the scene of the Battle of Trollfjord in 1890, when open-boat fishermen fought against the advent of steam-engine fishing boats.

How to see the fjords

The 10 largest fjords are accessible from major cruise ships – companies such as P&O, Royal Caribbean and MSC run regular trips to these wonders. The scenery on these is simply stunning, however, it is apparently nothing compared to the much smaller fjords that you need to access by smaller boats.

Cruise ship pulling away from Fjords

Of course, you can fly in, stay in a fjord town and hike them, but by far much of the drama comes from sailing past these imposing formations. There are also a range of train routes you can take if you prefer a land route that breeze through the fjords and allow you to bask in their beauty.

What is the culture?

With over 1000 fjords it is perhaps unsupring there is not a monolithic culture. Different fjords and their towns or cities have different cultures. As you will see if you go to the Stavanger Museum each area has a different interpretation of the Bunad, the Norwegian national costume. For example Hardangerfjord is known as the Orchard of Norway and is home to a range of cider producers.

Some of the towns are tiny (see Olden) and some are much more cosmopolitan (Stavanger). The one thing that feels consistent is the tourist Troll toys and models.

Port One: Olden

Olden, a small town that is largely reliant on tourism to fund its local economy was undoubtedly the town that had the most remarkable geology.

Briksdale Glacier

If you are lucky enough to stop in Olden, the Briksdale Glacier hike is a must. It’s not easy and it’s a bit of a faff to get to (you pretty much have to go on an organised trip, which are timed to cruise arrivals and you have a set window to explore) but it’s totally worth it. For those who are less mobile, there is an accessible version where Troll Cars take you most of the way up. If you’re on a shore excursion, I would book ahead with Olden Adventure – it’s 470 NK or about £35 GBP (this is about £10 cheaper than the P&O shore experience). Olden Adventure is set up for shore excursions so understand embarkation times etc. They also offer a cable car and bus-guided sightseeing. You can likely do two excursions in one day. We did the hike, then explored the very small village including the shop, a church, and another walk. If you’ve not booked in advance do not fear – we just turned up on the day and there was no problem with getting on a hike.

white church in Olden

If you are driving to Olden then the Glacier also offers independent routes – more information is available here.

Port two: Ålesund

Ålesund may not be as beautiful as Olden, but thankfully there is a lot more to do.

View over Alesund

The small town still feels pretty swamped when a 5000-person cruise rocks up, but it doesn’t feel like the entire local economy is beholden to the cruise ships.

In Ålesund, we did the “leisurely highlights” tour which included a short walk around the highest point in Alesund (you can walk up there, it’s steep but you can do it) and a trip to Sunnmøre, an outdoor museum which also includes a random exhibition of Norwegian advertising. In the outdoor museum, the collection of 56 houses from around Norway are an interesting quirk and gives a snapshot into life in Norway. However as with most of our stops, it was the view with lunch that won it.

Art Nouveau was developed in the 1890s and was popular until the first world war. It aimed to bring together previous styles and is characterised by asymetrical curves and lines and bright colours.

For our afternoon, we shunned the museums in the town centre (wasn’t enough time to explore them, have our packed lunch and see the town and harbour).

The interesting thing about Ålesund Town is it feels more like Brussels or Paris than it does other Norwegian towns. This is because following a factory fire at the turn of the twentieth century about 800 homes were destroyed. Support was sent from around Europe and the architects who were rebuilding it were inspired by the art nouveau movement that was popular in central Europe. Most of the town was rebuilt at the same time (1904 – 1907) so it’s fairly uniform in its look.

the streets in Alesund

The bright blue sky definitely enhanced our experience and lit up this beautiful town. Though we shunned the official walking tour, there are plenty available.

Alesund harbour

Just one tip: we decided to buy lunch from a Londis to save some money (sandwich and fizzy water was over £10). This was a mistake. I mean yes, it was cheaper than a cafe but my oh my it was grim.

If you have the extra £5 to spend, do it.

Port three: Stavanger

Street art in Stavanger

Stavanger offers once again an utterly unique experience. As opposed to art nouveau, you are inundated with street art (of various quality).

Stavanger sets itself apart from Ålesund and Olden as the only stop you could fill more than one day as a tourist.

We enjoyed a jam-packed day with a museum pass and visited the National Petroleum Museum (better than it sounds), the Stavanger Museum and the Maritime Museum as well as the old town… and there was much more left to do.

The Old Town

Stavanger Old Town

Stavanger’s Old Town features narrow roads that are lined with cobbled pavements and white wooden houses that date back to the eighteenth century. This relatively compact group of 173 houses makes for a lovely walking route and for cruisers, it is conveniently located a few hundred meters from the harbour. The houses are immaculately presented and many are adorned with colourful flowers. It will likely take you no more than about 30 minutes to walk around the old town. The old town is also home to the Canning Museum. Yup, that’s a museum dedicated to putting things into cans. You can even see how fish was canned. I mock, but I am now quite gutted I didn’t go.

The Petroleum Museum

Petroleum Museum dress up

If you had said to me at the start of the trip that this would have been a highlight I would have laughed at you. In your face.

The Petroleum Museum is open from 10am – 7pm and costs 150 NK (£11 GBP) for an adult.

However when faced with a downpour (it rains over 230 days a year in Stavanger) it seemed like a good way to spend an hour or two. How wrong I was. This museum was a deep dive into how finding oil in the 1970s transformed Norway’s economy.

But that’s not all… the museum also features a mock oil rig (complete with escape slide, that big kids can enjoy), fancy dress (yup) opportunities to make a big bang, and a section dedicated to climate change and decarbonization (I am still undecided if this counts as greenwashing).

The Stavanger Museum

At the top of the hill lies the Stavanger Museum. My this was a find – it was almost everything I love about a small museum in one building. This quiet museum houses an eclectic mix of exhibitions all in a deceptively large old building… taxidermy, national dress, floating heads that talk at you, an enchanted wonderland, sex education and giant toys.

uterus
giant doll
taxidermy

This museum is great fun – you can sit in a plastic womb, dress up like someone from the 1970s and learn a lot about culture in the country.

A first-time guide to a Cruise

This Easter we took sail for the first time. I’ve always been cynical about if I would enjoy a cruise but my friend convinced me to book Norwegian Fjords on P&O Cruises ship, the Iona. It can be daunting. As a first-timer I found the cruise ship like another world – they have their own lingo, ways of paying and there are even different laws when you’re at sea.

I’ve processed the holiday, googled a lot of what I saw and heard so, here is what you need to know if you’re thinking about booking or have just booked your first cruise.

It’s a REALLY easy holiday

As someone who likes to see a lot of things, a cruise was a really easy and fairly cheap way of seeing a lot. The fact you were taken to the next place, you don’t have to make many decisions about food or seek out entertainment.

The most taxing thing we did all week was working out how to get our complimentary glass of fizz on celebration night (it came with dinner in exchange for a voucher – simples).

This was really really appreciated and meant we could truly relax!

A cruise ship is its own world

Glossary:

  • Freedom restaurants: places you don’t pay extra for but serve you food.
  • Sea day: day at sea, where you will be in the middle of the ocean. If you are lucky, you will see a wind farm.
  • Talk about xyz: sales opportunity (!)
  • Celebration/ gala evening: this is black tie dining, where the food is better than usual and you get a glass of fizz. It takes place across the ship, not in a specific place.
  • Cruise credit: Onboard spending money that comes as part of your package.
  • Friends of Bill W: AA meeting on a cruise – called this to protect anonymity.

The Cruise Ship is enormous and most have thousands of people. You are given a map for a reason. In essence, the ship is its own society with everything you might need – from a theatre, to different standards of restaurants, to a gym, a library, shops, many bars and games like shuffleboard. You can even get married or renew your vows on some boats.

Like in the real world, you need many changes of clothes – for every occasion you encounter on the ship.

Like with other holidays where people will go to the same place but try a new hotel, people will do the same cruise but on a different ship.

There is a daily newspaper that is jam-packed with talks, exercise classes, worship opportunities, kids activities, cinema times, shows and offers.

This also means it has its own language. People who are used to cruising know the lingo and it can feel like speaking in tounges.

Your cruise card is your key

On the Iona, everything was synced to one card, your Cruise Card – this was how you paid for everything (even duty-free – it linked to the credit card you provide in advance), it acted as your room key, checked you on and off the ship when at port, helped you access WiFi, on-ship bookings etc.

Pack a range of clothes

I read so much about formal nights, weather at different ports and wind on deck before I went that I definitely overpacked. However, you do need a good range of clothes for a cruise. One formal outfit is advisable as some restaurants do need it and you don’t want to miss out on a good night because you only bought tatty jeans.

I also packed two sets of gym gear, yoga pants for relaxing, jeans for shore days and my swimming costume. Because we had booked a hike for one of our ports, I also ended up bringing four pairs of shoes: hiking boots, flat pumps, trainers for gym and walking shoes. Ok five as I also bought my pool-side flip flops. In hindsight this wasn’t needed but I didn’t know what to expect.

Even the basic cabins come fully equipped

Remember, your cabin is your hotel room. Even the most basic cabins on a cruise come with all the things you would expect: clean towels every day, small fridge, a good TV, a hair dryer, instant coffee and tea bags, shampoo and body wash. The cabins are cleaned and beds are made every day, which is a bonus as many hotels now don’t do this.

There is also a fridge, but it’s not big enough to keep your litre of booze you’re allowed to bring onboard in. And it’s also not that cold. Or mine wasn’t.

On P&O you can even have a standard breakfast delivered as room service for no additional cost – but there are lovely upgrades you can also pay extra for.

I haven’t worked out how they determine which plugs to have but P&O which sail from the UK have British plugs on them.

Be prepared, book in advance

Your fellow passengers in addition to knowing all the lingo, will have planned their trip meticulously – from how they book parking (see below) to the spa, to planning dinners and shore experiences. Essentially from when you book, you’re in competition for every game of table tennis, shuffleboard, dinner table or parking space. You need to get in early or miss out.

Booking in advance also extends to Baby supplies. If you need a travel cot, you need to contact the cruise provider in advance. P&O even have a long lead time for Baby food: they need at least 7 weeks’ notice from when you are sailing.

Specialty dining should also be booked in advance. On P&O it opens two weeks before sailing. Again people will be organised and there at one minute past midnight so be prepared! We tried to book about 10 days out and nothing with entertainment was left at all. There was a pub with spaces but that was it. Fear not, the buffet is still excellent but it doesn’t have a celeb singing!

Research shore experiences

The shore experiences provided by the cruise company are really good and represent good value. They pick you up from the ship, you don’t have to worry about where to go, and they offer a really fantastic range of options depending how mobile and adventurous you are or how much you have to spend.

However, we also found that some of the experiences were identical to those which you could buy at the port. In one case, we missed the boat (boom) on a hike that was organised by the company we travelled with but got the same trip for £20 less at the port. DEAL!

The other reason it is worth researching is there is not loads to do in some ports. Cruise stops are determined partly by which ports on a route can support a large ship coming into dock. Not planning and booking can give you a dull day.

Book your parking as soon as you book the cruise

This may seem silly, but cruise companies way over-allocate parking slots as I learned the hard way.

If you add parking to your booking, you reserve the right to register for parking when you book, but you don’t actually book your parking. This is done by a separate phone call. CPS is one of the major providers of Cruise parking and are pretty strict on booking policy.

The T&Cs on your parking at the port are included in your booking confirmation but what they don’t tell you is 10 days is the ABSOLUTE LATEST you can register your car. Many car parks book up a month in advance, especially during a busy period.

You can’t actually swim in the pools

Well on the ship we went on anyway. There were four pools on board, which as a keen swimmer I was really excited about. HOWEVER, not one was more than about 10 metres in length which makes it impossible to actually swim.

Watch the extras

Unlike staying in an all-inclusive hotel (the closest thing I can equate the cruise to) there is a lot included, but there is also the ability to buy a lot of add-ons or upgrade meals, snacks etc.

  • WiFi is cheaper when bought in advance, but you pay per-person, per-day for it, and on the liner we went with, you had to buy the whole cruise if bought in advance. You can buy single days once onboard which depending on how much you cannot live without an internet connection, could be cheaper.
  • Drinks can be bought as a package or on-the-go and if you are not a heavy drinker, on-the-go will likely be cheaper. The drinks packages on P&O have recently changed, so it’s really important to research if it’s worth it for you. Most important thing to note is you have to buy the drinks package for the duration of your cruise, you cannot just choose a day or two.
  • Meals in the buffet and casual dining restaurants are included in your package but lots of restaurants are not. You pay extra for coffee (on P&O it’s costa), gelato and any soft drinks not in the buffet and alcohol.
  • Spa use – the swimming pools are included but things such as the relaxation areas or saunas come at an additional cost. How these are sold varies by provider.

Cruise insurance is not negotiable

If you’re like I was a few years ago and would cut a corner by traveling uninsured (this stopped when I went to the US and realised what healthcare would cost me) then prioritise this one. It’s easy to find – for example on CompareTheMarket. Most companies will not let you board without cruise insurance that has a minimum of £2 million in cover. I think this is if you need air ambulance however it also covers things like changes in schedule…

Your schedule could change

The nature of being on a cruise ship means that some of the stops can be cancelled or changed – if the waters are too stormy or treacherous. This happened to us and it meant we had 3 days at sea and 3 port days, not 2 at sea and 4 port days. This was disappointing, but the ship staff are clearly used to it as letters came to our cabin explaining the new schedule and how to make an insurance claim (not sure what for still but…) and there was a great assortment of on-board entertainment put on: we tried shuffleboard!

shuffleboard on P&O Iona

Timings are absolute

From the word go, timing is of the essence. Because of the number of people they need to get on and off the boat, you will be given a short timeslot to check-in and board the boat. You need to arrive at this time, not before, not after. The same goes for disembarking.

When the cruise says back on board by 4.30, it means we will start looking for passengers who haven’t been registered as back onboard at 4.20 so we can leave at 4.30. An excursion that starts at 9.30 will start at 9.30 and most people will be there by 9.10.

Movement

Were surprised by how much and how little we could feel the boat move. Anna gets travel sick more than I do and didn’t feel sick, which is good.

Using your mobile phone

Once you leave a country phone tariff, your phone will switch to a Maritime tariff. This is REALLY expensive. On EE I was quoted £6.52 for 4MB of data that would last 24 hours, £3.11 a minute to make a call / £3.11 to receive a call, and 76p to send a text. In short, it isn’t worth it, and it makes the on-ship Wifi look attractive. Or read a book!

Get ahead of the laundry!

It’s true that laundry isn’t front of mind for most when on holiday, but on the P&O cruise ships the laundry rooms are free of charge, you just need to bring some detergent. It might feel like finishing your holiday before you get home to use your last sea day to do laundry, but it will save you money and aggravation when back home.

SAVE THIS GUIDE
first timers guide to a cruise
first time guide to a cruise

Best places to eat in Atlanta – from southern charms to the best take-out

One of the advantages of repeat visits to a city is really learning where to eat (and where to avoid *looks at Waffle House*).

Atlanta is known for traditional southern food. Peanuts are one of the most famous crops in Georgia (think Jimmy Carter, the Peanut Farmer) and Peaches are also abundant (the Peach State). For traditional food, think biscuits (not what British people think of), shrimp and grits, chicken and waffles, oysters, mac and cheese. It is hearty comfort food, with a lot of flavour.

Restaurants in Atlanta have played an important part in the history of the city, especially in the Civil Rights Movement, providing meeting places for civil rights campaigners and becoming the front line in the fight against the Jim Crow laws and the fight against discrimination.

Today the different influences on the city make for a vibrant food scene that has really come into its own in the last 10 years. Like many cities in southern states, Atlanta boasts its unique food heritage and has a fantastic range of Tex-Mex food. The variety of food including the different takes on bean-based meals are stunning.

Having spent a fair amount of time with locals, many of these are places I’ve found by word of mouth or, from wandering around a neighbourhood and stumbling in.

South City Kitchen

With four locations in Atlanta, South City Kitchen gives diners a high-end and contemporary taste of the south. South City also gave me my first encounter with “biscuits” (not what we think of in Britain, but something closer to a scone). The image on the right is probably one of the best prawn dishes I have ever eaten. In a hot tomato sauce, served with a wedge of bread and a crisp rose, I can still remember the meal well. The staff here were super-friendly and loved the British accent (it’s a bit of a rarity in the depths of Atlanta).

South City Kitchen isn’t the cheapest meal out you will find in Atlanta and certainly isn’t the most cost-effective way of trying southern food, but trust me, it is worth it.

Superica

A Tex-Mex joint with four locations in Atlanta, Supercia offered one of the strongest margaritas I have found in the US and was paired with delicious guacamole and nachos and a simple chicken wrap that was full of flavour and really filling. I took away a piece of dulce de leche cake, not something I would have chosen without a push, but totally worth it. The whole restaurant had a great vibe – super relaxed and full of laughter.

Hattie B’s Hot Chicken

Hattie B’s is a small chain of southern-style chicken, located in key cities in the south – from Atlanta to Birmingham, you will find a Hattie B’s.

We discovered Hattie B’s by chance – a desire for a takeaway and it being on Uber eats and were overwhelmed. It wasn’t an outlandish portion size – unusual for a takeaway in the US, wasn’t too greasy and wasn’t too heavy. The peach cobbler for dessert was a real treat too.

Cheesecake Factory

No American I have met understood why I wanted to go to the Cheesecake Factory! However as a huge fan of the Big Bang Theory as soon as I spotted a branch, I knew I had to go. In true American style, the pasta dishes we had were enough for a second dinner each. The best decision we made however was the Cinnamon Bun Cheesecake. Half a piece each (yes that photo is HALF) was enough and my.oh.my. I NEED it again!

Seven Lamps, Buckhead

Seven Lamps was an unexpected surprise. A treat of a team night out, with fantastic rosé and these small plates of grilled octopus, courgette fries, burrata, grilled salmon with veg, finished off with a chocolate-peanut butter brownie.

Chick-Fil-A

I feel as if I can claim Chick-Fil-A in this post as it’s one of the many gems in the US that was founded in Atlanta. It’s possibly some of the best takeaway chicken you could hope for – and the salads are fantastic as well.

What’s more, I was really impressed by the fact Chick-Fil-A has quite strict opening hours and has stuck to the founders belief in not opening on a Sunday. In this 24-hour world it would be so profitable to change this, however they believe their employees should have one day for family and worship. In this ever-connected world, I love that they continue to enforce this. I just need to not focus on some of the views of the management that come with this commitment to sunday closing.

The Flying Biscuit, Midtown.

I cannot remember much about this, except for it being a perfect final meal of the trip I had in June and really want to go back.