Experience the charm of a medieval British town

Shaftesbury is a quintessential British town in Dorset that is nestled just over the border from Wiltshire. Shaftesbury’s cobbled streets and independent shops transport you back to a time gone by. It’s accessible if you’re on holiday in London, the South West or the South East for a day trip. One of the reasons to visit Shafesbury is the view. The town was built at the top of a hill that is over 700 ft high. This means from multiple points there are breathtaking views of an almost unspoilt landscape. The rolling hills which surround Shaftesbury remind you that nothing compares to the British countryside. The and the rain clouds soon remind you why you might want to look abroad (just kidding!).

If you want more reasons than I found to visit Shaftesbury, this blog from the Botanical Candle Company (based in Shaftesbury) has 101 reasons.

To check out my guide to other parts in Dorset, see 48 hours in Dorset. For a full list of accommodation in Shaftesbury, see here. We stayed in a house swap so I am unable to recommend my accomodation.*

A little history of Shaftesbury

Shaftesbury was founded in Saxon times, although much of the town dates to the Eighteenth Century.

In Saxon times, the town was centred around the Abbey (built in 888 and closed in 1539), which is thought to be the first religious house in the UK built just for women. Additionally, the plentiful agricultural land meant that the town was affluent from its inception (and it certainly still is today).

Reasons to visit Shaftesbury

Reason one: a visit to Shaftesbury Abbey

Shaftesbury Abbey was built by Alfred the Great in 888AD, and there was a church added in the 12th Century. The Abbey was one of the largest and richest estates in England. It became a target for Henry VIII when during the reformation, he was raiding monasteries and requisitioning land to pay for his wars with France. He required Shaftesbury Abbey to pay £100 towards his wars – one of the largest amounts in England. The final abbess tried to offer Thomas Cromwell money to spare the abbey, but this was unsuccessful and it was closed in 1539.

At its height, over 120 nuns lived in Shaftesbury Abbey, and the lowest number at the end of the Fifteenth Century was 25. It was restored back to 52 nuns at the time when it was closed.

Today, just the ruins survive, these include the pillars of the Abbey, an altar to St Edward and a few coffins.

The Abbey is an interesting way to spend an hour in Shaftesbury, the volunteers are very helpful and knowledgable and it is free to go around. To learn more about the women of Shaftesbury Abbey, ÆTHELGIFU: The First Saxon Abbess (THE FIRST LADIES OF SHAFTESBURY ABBEY)* is a great read.

Reason two: Gold Hill and the giant loaf of Hovis

Gold Hill is iconic for many Brits. It as used by bread makers Hovis as the setting for many of their advertisements. As a cobbled street with picture-perfect houses it transports you to a time gone by.

Local residents are clearly well aware of the allure which the hill has for Brits, and they have built a large loaf of Hovis bread as a sculpture at the top of the hill, which is a tad tacky, but also quite cool.

Reason Three: the stunning shops

Shaftesbury is a hub of independent shops bursting with locally produced and sourced goods. On the outside many of them seem like run-of-the-mill gift shops, but they are not!

I was promised by Natalie when we booked our trip to Shaftesbury that the candle shop was next level. I shrugged this off, but I was wrong. My soy-lavender candle is one of the best home fragrances I’ve bought (yes, better than the White Company that I am usually very loyal to) and the shop has the most brilliant selection of homeware and decorations.

The Farm Soap Shop was another hidden gem. Being contrary I bought a small plant pot, not the soap, but it truly was stunning. The whole shop was modelled on an old launderette crossed with a traditional pharmacy.

Shaftesbury Antiques Store was something truly different. Yes it had the hallmarks of many antique stores in the form of musty furniture you’re not sure you could place in a house not belonging to your grandparents, but it also had some very quirky pieces. We saw two people walking out with traditional wooden skis and poles. This probably said it all.

In addition to these shops, the town hall was open to a small craft market when we went. Just as everywhere else in Shaftesbury the market stalls had food and things to buy that were just a bit better than you find in other places.

Reason four: Shaftesbury has wonderful views

One of the wonderful things about Shaftesbury is that it was built on the top of a hill. This means that there are stunning green landscapes which go as far as the eye can see.

One locals recommendation we had was to sit on the terrace at the Mitre pub and take it in. Even on a cold and wet day, the heated terrace came good for us, and it was well worth it.

Equally, if you drive just a couple of miles outside of the town, there are a series of challenging circular walks that take you around the Fontmell and Melbury Downs and through agricultural fields.

Reason five: Compton Abbas Airfield

Compton Abbas Airfield is located a couple of miles outside of Shaftesbury and is a reason to visit the town alone. It boasts a range of activities for visitors. The airfield specialises in vintage planes. The day we went it felt as if there was some sort of event happening. We had the privilege of seeing some brightly coloured and wartime fighter planes.

The Airfield also has a brilliant (themed of course, but tastefully) cafe. It has mixed reviews online, but I thought it was lovely. Slow service, but lovely. Plus you had pilots coming from the planes in their Top Gun-style outfits which made the experience.

Also, the views from the airfield are still stunning.

The one downside of the airfield was that it messes with the skyline. The day after I visited the airfield there was meant to be a rare comet that you could see from earth. I was absolutely CONVINCED I saw THE very old Comet in the sky. I didn’t, it was smoke from a plane. Gutted.

Reason six: The best breakfast sandwich

A bold statement yes. But picture this. Two perfectly cooked local sausages, a fried egg, some onions on lightly toasted white sourdough with tomato chutney spread on the bread in place of butter. It was crispy, juicy, tangy and I was full until about 4pm. Yes, Sorelle delivered beyond what I was expecting.

To make this sandwich even better, the cafe was a marquee on a farm just out of town, adorned with tea lights. It had a very rustic feel and just made me feel at home.

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