What to see beyond HMS Victory

Portsmouth, or Pompey to those of us in the know, is a seaside town in the south of England that often gets a bad reputation. If you are from the UK or visiting the UK, I would say Portsmouth is a place you need to visit. Yes, it is a little run down in places and has some questionable nightclubs where you might lose more than just a heel (think your dignity), it really is so much more than that. Portsmouth is a city that grows on you (and no, that isn’t a reference to the mould from a club growing), and the more you explore, the more you uncover.

Having spent over 20 years living near Portsmouth, and with friends and family still calling it home, I know there is much more to this city than meets the eye. I hope if you use this guide, you’ll leave the city with some of the same affection for Portsmouth that I just cannot shake whether you are here for a day trip, in transit before a cruise or ferry crossing or for a holiday. Despite the mediocre football performances.

Oh and if it is your first cruise, check out my guide for what to expect. Though this is based on a cruise from Southampton so *sick*. Equally, if you fancy a trip across the Solent, see my favourite things to do on the Isle of Wight.

Getting to Portsmouth

Portsmouth is accessible by Car (driving down the A3 / M27), by train from London Waterloo, London Victoria and Brighton*, via the National Express Coach* or even by boat from France (Cherbourg and Le Harve) or the Isle of Wight.

Staying in Portsmouth

Unsurprisingly, I’ve never paid for accommodation in Portsmouth. However if you are looking for somewhere to stay, you could do worse than checking out this page or see the map below.

Prioritise Southsea or Gunwharf Quays. Avoid North End or Fratton.

Where to eat in Portsmouth

The best places to eat in Portsmouth are Gunwharf Quays (mainly chain restaurants) and Southsea which is more of a foodie hub these days.

In Southsea there are loads of independent places, here are a few I (or Amy who lives there and I trust 100%) recommend:

• Merchant House Pub, Southsea – the Merchant House has a really laid-back vibe, which takes the local naval history and makes it hipster. However the winner is the Street Food which even in vegan month is to die for.
• Broadway Coffee – at Broadway they roast their own beans and encompass the Southsea vibe which locals love so much.
• The Akash – the Akash is an institution in Southsea. Located near the Kings Theatre, it is the go-to curry house if you’re local. It’s on Albert Road with lots of bars, which means you can also get the late night curry you might crave after a night out.
• Bubble and Pho – this is Southsea’s answer to the Bubble Tea trend. Its relatively new and wonderful.

And if you want somewhere cheap, the Lord Palmerston is the Southsea Wetherspoons and you can’t go wrong with a Wetherspoons (I mean you can, but you know…)

The other great place to eat in Portsmouth is Tin Tins – one of the only Chinese restaurants in Portsmouth which people from Hong Kong or China will actually eat in, which I always count as a good recommendation.

A night out in Portsmouth

Albert Road in Southsea, Guildhall Walk in Portsmouth and Gunwharf Quays all have a buzzing nightlife and attract their own groups.

Guildhall Walk tends to be for college students, those on shore leave from the Navy or those looking for a punch-up. Southsea tends to be for University Students and twenty-something hipsters (think Wedgewood Rooms and Little Johnny Russels or Hong Kong Charlies) and Gunwharf is for those either at college or mid-thirties onwards. Somehow there isn’t much for those aged between. If you fancy live music, then the Guildhall or Wedgewood Rooms are your places to go.

Portsmouth for History Lovers

Step into the UK’s Naval History at the Historic Dockyard*

Portsmouth’s Historic Dockyard is the crown jewel of the city. This sprawling complex offers visitors the chance to step aboard some of the most famous ships in British naval history, each representing a pivotal moment in maritime heritage.

HMS Victory

My favourite part of the dockyard has consistently been the Victory. Yes the Mary Rose museum is now a lot better than when I was a child, but the Victory has consistently delivered. I still remember the tour guide when I was a child tapping a plastic biscuit on the bench in the mess to show us how sailors got rid of the maggots in it.

Anyway…

Why should you care about the Victory? It was Admiral Lord Nelson’s flagship during the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. Visitors can tour the decks where Nelson issued his famous command, “England expects that every man will do his duty.” and possibly more compelling for many, see the place where he was shot and then where he died. They even have a barrel which they claim was where Hardy had Nelson’s body preserved.

The tale goes that Nelson was preserved in brandy or rum and when the body was removed from it, the shipmates drank the spirit calling it ‘Nelson’s Blood’. As the ship is technically still in commission, it is kept in impeccable condition. However the only time it is really used these days is for commemorative dinners (to which I am yet to work out how to get an invitation to).

HMS Warrior

Built in 1860, HMS Warrior was Britain’s first iron-hulled, armoured warship. At the time of her launch, she was the fastest, largest, and most powerful warship in the world. Though she never saw battle, her very existence marked a turning point in naval warfare, rendering wooden warships obsolete. I never found the Warrior quite as interesting as the victory, but it really is a great way to use an hour or so. If you fall in love with it, you can even get married on the ship, which is pretty cool.

• The Mary Rose – Perhaps the most famous shipwreck in British history, the Mary Rose sank in 1545 during a battle against the French fleet. Rediscovered and raised from the Solent in 1982, she is on display in a glass cabinet which has gone through many incarnations. The museum as it is today is one of the best around. The remaining part of the ship is on display, but the museum guides you deck by deck through life onboard and the rescue mission. The conservationists have taken great care of the thousands of artifacts that tell the story of Tudor life at sea.
• HMS M33 – A lesser-known but equally fascinating vessel, HMS M33 is a surviving monitor from World War I. One of only three left from the war, she saw action during the Gallipoli Campaign. The ship is a stark reminder of the hardships faced by sailors during wartime, and her restoration offers a rare glimpse into 20th-century naval warfare.
• National Museum of the Royal Navy – Located within the dockyard, this museum delves deep into the history of the Royal Navy, from its origins to the modern era. It features exhibits on naval battles, shipbuilding, and life at sea, as well as an impressive collection of naval artifacts, uniforms, and weaponry. The museum also explores the personal stories of sailors. When I was a child I remember being terrified of an exhibition which used a video of an actress on a cutout body to tell the story of a woman who pretended to be a man to join the navy and be near her husband. Who knows how true that was, but the red hair and grainy face stayed with me!
• Loads of stuffed rats yup, someone thought that cuddly toys of rats would be a great thing to sell. I mean….

The dockyard also has some really good cafes these days and a weird little cinema. You can buy tickets on the door or in advance from here. For a whole day at the Dockyard, the best value is the explorer ticket not one for an individual ship.*

Understand D-Day at the D-Day Story

Located on Southsea seafront, the D-Day Story* is the only museum in the UK dedicated to the Normandy Landings. It tells the story of D-Day through personal accounts, original artifacts, and interactive exhibits. The highlight is the Overlord Embroidery, an incredible 83-metre-long tapestry depicting the events of D-Day. The tapestry is designed to emulate the Bayeux Tapestry, but of a more modern battle.

The museum features vehicles used during the landings, including landing craft, tanks, and jeeps, providing a tangible connection to the pivotal events of 1944. Multimedia presentations and personal diaries bring to life the immense planning and sacrifice involved in D-Day, making it a moving and educational experience.

Southsea Castle

Southsea Castle is Portsmouth’s link to Henry VIII – it was built by him to fortify the south coast of England and protect Portsmouth from invasion by the French. It was from Southsea Castle that Henry watched the Mary Rose sink.

Southsea Castle is not a day out by any stretch of the imagination – this free castle takes about an hour to go around all told

Explore Old Portsmouth

Take a walk through Old Portsmouth and soak up the maritime charm of this historic district. Cobbled streets, traditional pubs, and seaside cottages line the area, offering a glimpse into Portsmouth’s seafaring past. The area is perfect for a leisurely afternoon, with waterfront cafes and pubs offering fresh seafood and harbour views.

Visit the Butterfly House

Located within Cumberland House Natural History Museum, the Butterfly House offers a tranquil escape. Walk through a lush tropical environment surrounded by free-flying butterflies – it will make you feel as if you are seeing these butterflies in the wild. The Butterfly house is somewhere I’ve returned to on a number of occasions and it always holds fond memories for me.

Clarence Pier and the arcade

The beach in Southsea

The beach in Southsea is a shingle beach with a mild tide. It goes onto the English Channel so it is ok for swimmers (if you don’t mind the cold) and it is relatively clean. It is a really good place for paddleboarding and kayaking if this takes your fancy. Overall, the beach is a great place for a day out. There is the Blue Reef Aquarium on the beach, a rose garden, the canoe lake and loads of places to get fish and chips. If you are a fan of Park Run, Southsea seafront hosts the local chapter of this and they are a friendly bunch too.

Live entertainment

Comedy and music at the Wedge

The Wedgewood Rooms in Southsea is Portsmouth’s premier live music and entertainment venue. Known for its intimate atmosphere, it has hosted performances by some of the UK’s biggest bands and emerging artists. Whether you’re into rock, indie, or stand-up comedy, the Wedgewood Rooms is the place to experience live acts up close. It’s a cornerstone of the local music scene and a must-visit for those wanting to catch a gig in a vibrant setting.

Experience mid-level Football at Portsmouth F.C.

A visit to Portsmouth wouldn’t be complete without experiencing the thrill of a match at Fratton Park, home to Portsmouth FC. Known for its passionate fanbase, Portsmouth FC is one of the most traditional clubs in the UK. There is a strong ‘Pompey in the Community’ scheme where the club engages with local schools and scouts for local talent. Pompey also have a record no-one expects. They held the FA Cup for the longest period of time out of any club in the UK. Ok, this is because they won it before the Second World War broke out and it wasn’t played for years, but let’s not let that get in the way of local pride.

On matchdays, the streets around the stadium come alive as fans pour out of terraced houses to support their team. The atmosphere inside the ground is always charged, and the chants are a good way of stretching your knowledge of the English language! Whether Pompey are on top form or struggling, the fans are always in good voice.

If you want proper local football, my dad tells me Moneyfields are worth the entry fee. They’re proper non-league, grassroots football. I was going to say the opposite of Pompey, but really the opposite of most football.

*Denotes an affiliate link, this means if you make a booking, I get a small commission at no cost to you. I only recommend experiences I have enjoyed and would do again.

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