Category: England

Best things to do in Cornwall, UK

Where to stay, what to do, and what to eat – from a (semi) local perspective.

Cornwall is one of the most beautiful counties in the UK and has many more things to do than first meets the eye. I was fortunate enough to spend two years living and working in the county and have visited frequently since. I was based in Newquay, a traditional seaside town on the north coast of Cornwall where my godmother still lives. This guide is built from twenty years of visits, showing visitors around and days out with the friends I made in Cornwall. This is also reflected in the length of this post (brace yourselves).

The county of Cornwall is a classic example of rural poverty in the UK, with house prices over 10x local wages (many are owned as second homes or exist only as holiday homes), limited industry (tourism and social care are major industries) and well-paid jobs are few and far between; the average salary in Cornwall is about £10k a year lower than the UK average.

Because of how much time I have spent in Cornwall, I am splitting the guide into multiple editions; you will pick up from each edition that a National Trust membership is a good investment if you are heading to Cornwall. This post really just scratches the surface and gives you the essentials for a brilliant holiday.

A Short History of Cornwall

Cornwall (or Kernow) has a unique Celtic heritage and is considered to be one of the Celtic nations, alongside Wales, Scotland, and Ireland. It’s for this reason that the Cornish language (which is spoken still by some) bears more resemblance to Irish than English. Even in the Norman times, there was acceptance that the Cornish had a distinct identity from the rest of England.

The Tamar River is the traditional divider between Cornwall and Devon and it is symbolic for many Cornishmen – I remember one telling me he wanted to blow it up to stop any more incomers (like me) from the rest of the UK coming over. It turned out later he wasn’t even Cornish himself!

It’s for these reasons there is a Cornish nationalist movement (spearheaded by political party Mebyon Kernow) that campaigns for greater autonomy for the county (not independence mind).

Cornwall is incredibly rich in natural resources – the mid-country town of St Austell was a home of clay mines and Redruth and towns westward were home to tin mines from the eighteenth to twentieth century (the last mine closed in 1998). It is also this mining heritage that gave birth to the iconic Cornish pasty: the pastry was crimped so miners could hold it on the edge without the goods getting dirty. The early pasty would contain a corner of jam, so miners could also have a sweet treat.

When to go to Cornwall

The tourist season in Cornwall officially runs from May to the end of September, but I would recommend April and October too. If at all possible, I would avoid it in August. It’s not just the sheer number of people on the beaches but the impact the influx of people has on every element of life. For example, in August you will queue to get into Morrisons in Newquay just to pick up a loaf of bread, it can take 30-40 mins more than off-season to get between the major towns as the roads are not set up for the August influx and attractions such as the Eden Project sell-out.

Equally, if you are looking for a holiday, I would avoid Cornwall from December to February – it is cold, wet, and windy and a lot of cafes, shops, and museums are closed.

Getting to Cornwall

Cornwall is accessible by train (but be warned, these are not the most reliable and it’s difficult to get across the county by train), plane (to Newquay Airport) and by car (probably the easiest). There are two main roads into and around Cornwall: the A30 and A38. This means in peak season and at peak times of day, your journey is S.L.O.W. This isn’t an issue if you enjoy sitting in traffic jams, its more just to be aware it will happen (and to bring something to entertain kids or big kids with short attention spans).

Where to stay

Whilst a cute cottage in a Cornish village might seem like an idyllic place to stay, these cottages actually represent one of the biggest challenges to local people. Second and holiday homes have driven house prices up to one of the highest in relation to wages in the UK. If you can, try and find a holiday park or bed and breakfast. These are designed for tourists and provide more work to the local community. Equally, don’t be that person who brings all their food from their local supermarket. There are good farm shops and supermarkets in Cornwall, use them.

lodges at the Cornwall hotel and Spa
The Cornwall Spa & Hotel has lodges and a hotel to choose from

Hotel-wise, I haven’t stayed in many, but of those I have, I recommend the Waterwheel near St Austell, Mannings in Truro, and Cornwall Hotel and Spa in between St Austell and Mevagissey.*

What to eat

The Pasty

You cannot go to Cornwall and not have a pasty. The best ones in Cornwall are from Rowe’s or Warrens, which are Cornish bakery chains. I do however have a soft spot for the butcher on Chester Road in Newquay. His steak pasties are exceptional and worth the detour. Do not under any circumstances eat a Ginsters pasty when in Cornwall. You could get run out of town. I really cannot stress this enough, NO GINSTERS.

cartoon sheet called Pasty Stickers, with 12 options of different types of pasties.
Pasties are integral to Cornish culture, but take a bad photo

A cream tea

Cream teas are divisive in the West Country – the order in which you take your jam and cream is tied to your identity. This is also where I am sneered at in Cornwall. I am a firm believer in butter or cream first, then jam. It just makes sense. The Cornish firmly believe in jam first.

Equally with the cup of tea, there is much room for error. English Breakfast is the tea of choice but beware of misstepping with your Earl Grey. It is not a drink made for milk; it should also not be over-brewed like English Breakfast or Assam, else it leaves a bad taste. Light brew and a slice of lemon, no sugar if you’re opting for Earl Grey.

Fish and chips

It is one of those indisputable facts of life that deep-fried white fish and potatoes just taste better when wrapped in old newspaper with salty sea air blowing, sitting on a lukewarm beach. In Cornwall they know this, but it’s also easy to fall into a trap. Rick Stein is one of the chefs who has sought to make fish and chips in Cornwall posh. This is my tip for you, if you need to go to Rick Stein’s (probably in Padstow) to say you have, then by all means do. If you just want fish and chips, find a less polished-looking shack on a secluded beach and you will have a meal that will blow your mind. Smother the chips in vinegar, relish the crispy potato ends, and know you are getting a proper English experience. Extra points if you have to sit in the pouring rain.

Saffron Cake or Buns

The Saffron Cake or Bun is one of my less favourite Cornish treats, and it’s probably reflected in the fact it hasn’t really taken off in the rest of England. You’ll find a saffron bun in any good Cornish bakery.

Cyder

A selection of cornish ciders to sample
You cannot go wrong with a sample of Cornish Cyder

Cornish Cyder (for American readers, this is alcoholic, not like the Cider you get in the US) and is a very specific form of the classic drink. It’s often ‘scrumpy’ Cyder – very pale and dry. Healey and Rattler are some of the best brands to sample in Cornwall. I prefer Herefordshire Cider if given a choice, but you really cannot visit Cornwall without trying a local brew.

Doom Bar

Doom Bar, from St Austell Brewery, has become one of the most iconic ales in the UK and one of the only ones I find drinkable. It is a very dark ale, and the unique blend of hops and Cornish water means it slips down very easily.

Top tourist attractions

The Eden Project

eden project biome at night
two women by the eden project biomes in the day

The Eden Project is one of the UK ‘Millennium Projects’ and offers a unique day out. It is located in an old clay quarry outside St Austell and contains two biomes – the Mediterranean and rainforest – each of which has the climate of plants, birds, and butterflies you would find in the respective environments. It has become a beacon of scientific research and innovation in conservation but it is so much more than this. You can easily spend a whole day at the Eden Project as there are so many activities and exhibitions including Ice Skating (at additional cost) in the winter. Be warned, it is not a cheap day out – the food is not cheap (£6.90 for a cheese toastie in 2023) and the gift shop is hard to resist!

One word of warning on Eden, if you speak to my godmother who lives in Cornwall and has been to the Rainforest and the Mediterranean she will tell you not to bother with Eden. Seen it all she says. This is true and it’s easily underwhelming if you’re better travelled, so think about Eden for the marvel of conservation it is as opposed to seeing these plants for the first time.

Entry to the Eden Project is from £33 for an adult and can be booked in advance online or bought on-site. In peak times, prices increase and the project does sell out so advanced booking is encouraged.

Lands End

the sign post at Lands End

So, the thing about Lands End is, unless you go for a walk it really is just a signpost on the southernmost part of the UK with a gift shop. This doesn’t mean it isn’t cool to see it, but I do need to manage your expectations of what there is and is not to see. There used to be a Dr. Who experience, but that closed in 2017. This photo is older than that.

Lost Gardens of Heligan

The Lost Gardens of Helligan is a sprawling 200-acre conservation area near St Austell in Cornwall, which was restored by Sir Tim Smit, who went on to found the Eden Project. You need the best part of a day at the gardens, and I would recommend bringing your own food for lunch as there aren’t loads of options there. The gardens are brilliant for families as there is plenty for children to do, including a hidden beach area at the bottom of the gardens. They are also great for big kids to walk around and contain a lot of unusual plants which even if you don’t really care about plants are cool to see. There is also a unique range of sculptures across the park which help make a great day out.

The Lost Gardens of Heligan are best booked online, and adult tickets start at £18.00

St Michaels Mount

St Michaels Mount is one of those really cool islands (yes, I do quite enjoy these) which is managed by the National Trust and is home to the St Aubyn family. St Michaels Mount is accessible in-line with tide times and gives you a full day out to explore the main house, the harbour, village and church as well as some well-manicured gardens.

COTHELE

girl looking at the gardens in cothele.
Cothele gardens are great for a moment of solitude.

In the corner of southeast Cornwall, you will find the Tudor house of Cothele, another National Trust gem with well-landscaped gardens and a brilliant cafe. Cothele has long been a mainstay of my holidays to Cornwall (I have a scar on my knee which I got as a child falling down the steps in Cothele when a bit overexcited).

Minack Theatre

The Minack is a wonderful open-air theatre located on a Cornish Cliff. Before coming to Cornwall, it is worth seeing if there is a play on as it will be an experience like no other for you.

Cutest towns

Falmouth

Falmouth is probably my favourite town in Cornwall to visit. The high street has the perfect combination of tourist tat, Cornish culture, and surf or casual wear shops (it has one of the original branches of Seasalt, a fabulous Cornish clothing brand), some lovely pubs (the Boathouse I would especially recommend for a stop), great fish food and a good smattering of history. Pendennis Castle is well worth a visit (English Heritage manages it) and comes with brilliant views over the peninsula to St Mawes.

Padstow

Padstow is one of the most sought-after towns in Cornwall, awash with second homes and children who attend private schools in London. It is also a beautiful fishing village with a working port. It takes conservation seriously and you can visit the National Lobster Hatchery or learn more about the Camel Estuary in a boat trip. Padstow is also home to exceptional food (I would try and recommend one restaurant or pub above the rest, but I have never had a bad meal there) and a selection of local art shops.

PORT Isaac

The sleepy fishing village of Port Isaac has become a bit of a tourist attraction. It is the set of ITV’s Doc Martin and is also the inspiration for the film Fisherman’s Friends.

two women walking down the hill in Port Issac
The beauty of Cornish villages is they change yet stay the same. Port Isaac when I went two years ago looked the same as when this was taken.

Port Isaac is a beautiful village to lose a few hours walking in, eating some delicious local food, and literally running into one of the original members of the now famous folk group (we were served in one of the cafes by one member). Most of the visitor parking for Port Isaac is at the top of a hill, so it is not the most accessible village.

Bude

Bude is a fantastic location for those keen to surf, see diverse wildlife, or turn your hand to golf. It is one of the must-visit villages in North Cornwall and even has a sea pool for those partial to outdoor swimming (this is high on my bucket list of things to do when I next go to Cornwall).

St Ives

It claims to be the jewel in Cornwall’s crown, and St. Ives is certainly a special place. Located in the west of Cornwall, it is home to the county’s art community and one of the best galleries in the southwest of England – the Tate St. Ives. The town is punctuated by windy streets, which are packed with shops selling the best of British – from art, jewellery, fudge, sweets, and souvenirs. St. Ives is one of those reasons to visit Cornwall away from peak season – if you arrive after about 10.30 in July or August you will be unlikely to find a place to park and if, like me, you don’t like people moving slowly, it’s a nightmare.

charlestown

Charlestown is a quintessentially British town tucked away in St Austell Bay. In high summer it is adorned with bunting, situated on a beautiful harbour and host to a regatta and some magnificent restaurants. The best I have found in Charlestown is the Boathouse. It really stands out above the rest; I remember some magnificent fish and roasted aubergine with yoghurt dressing which I can still picture two years later.

The prettiest beaches

The best beaches are on the north coast of Cornwall. I am sure many people will dispute this and say, what about (for example) the Lizard or even Falmouth. These beaches are lovely, but not for a first-timer.

Towan beach in newquay at low tide
Towan Beach in Newquay is a good place for locals and tourists alike – it can host a swim in November or a sunny day with huts in July.

If it’s your first time in Cornwall, stick to the ones with the infrastructure like Watergate Bay, Fistral Beach or Hollywell Bay. At many of these beaches during peak season, locals will happily rent you their beach huts for about £25 a day. This may seem steep, but they usually come with body boards, chairs, the ability to lock your valuables away, teas, coffees and snacks. Some even have an electric ring so you can make food or more importantly, a plug socket to charge your phone.

Breathtaking walks

North Cornwall Coast

There are two main ‘types’ of walks in Cornwall – hilly walks, for example on Bodmin Moor or in Lostwithiel or the coastal path. If you are lucky, walking around a town in Cornwall will be less hilly, but you need to be prepared to flex those calf muscles. One of my favourite walks in Cornwall is on Lostwithiel as it is always green and lush, however the Gannel in Newquay and round to the headland is also stunning and can be done in about 90 minutes.

A night out…

Despite being a draw for hen and stag parties, I wouldn’t recommend Cornwall if you want to go partying. Newquay in the summer (or on New Year’s Eve) is probably your best bet, as it has all the cheese and cheap pubs that you would expect from a British holiday town; Sailors has always been the place to go for a good night out. Truro and Falmouth both have a reasonable selection of bars and clubs but Ibiza they are not. If you are DETERMINED you can have a good night out in Camborne or Saltash, but you do need to be determined.

And finally, the deceiving…

Gnome world

My mother, who loves a quirky museum as much as I do, dragged my poor godmother to Gnome World. It’s not a theme park like it sounds, it’s more like the back end of a garden centre, but without the good cafe and baked goods. “A few shit gnomes outside some caravans” was my godmother’s verdict. Really the woman should have her own blog.

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Four images of Cornwall including a sculpture, the eden project at night, toy pasties and towan beach
Towan beach in Newquay with text over that reads 'a perfect break in Cornwall'

*This post contains affiliate links, if you use one to make a purchase, I will get a small commission at no cost to you. Please note, I only link to things I have done or places I have and would do or return to these places again.

12 ways to spend a week in Northumberland, UK

Medieval history, stunning seafood and breathtaking landscapes

Nestled on the border between England and Scotland, Northumberland is a rural beauty with some of the best beaches Britain has to offer, lots of history and stunning countryside.

As a history buff, Northumberland is somewhere I cannot believe I have not visited before – it has more castles than any other county in the UK (it is the county that borders Scotland and was the first port of call for Viking and Saxon invaders) and it is also breathtakingly beautiful.

I spent a week in the county this September but didn’t make it as far as Hexham or Berwick which are also meant to be breathtaking.

Your laugh-at-me moment – we got to Craster Harbour and the town was filled with smoke. I was incandescent that no-one was doing their civic duty and phoning for a fire engine. I kept looking at my phone which had no signal so went to look. Yup, it was a kipper smokehouse.

A bit about Northumberland

Northumbria as it used to be known was one of the most powerful Anglo-Saxon settlements and was a powerhouse of the Christian Church in England. Its role in early Christianity can still be felt throughout the county, with many homages to the venerable bede and less famous (or mainstream you could say) saints.

Because of its proximity to Scotland, there are many links to the Mary, Queen of Scots and the Jacobite Rebellion. However, any claim Scotland had over the country was renounced through the Treaty of York. That said, Berwick-upon-Tweed, the northernmost town in the county has passed between Scotland and England.

Equally during the reformation, the Northumberland family yielded significant power and the first Duke was counted as a ruler of the country from 1549 to 1553 and is credited as one of the people who reformed the church in the UK and led it to become a protestant nation under Edward VI. The Duke also returned to Catholicism before his execution in 1553.

Today, Northumberland is home to a significant engineering sector in no small part thanks to the legacy of the Armstrong Family who bought Bamburgh Castle and are responsible for many modern inventions.

Getting around

Northumberland is most accessible by car, however you can also get the train to and fly to Newcastle.

Public buses are more frequent between the bigger towns than in some parts of the UK, but really a car is easiest. Just one warning – tractors and hay bales rule the roost, and it’s difficult to actually drive at the intended speed as the roads are very windey – you need to add on 10-15 mins to any sat nav estimate to allow for being stuck behind something. Usually a tractor or hay bale but it could also be a horse.

My logistics:

Travelled: by car

Stayed: Air B&B – Castaway in Amble

Ate: everything

1. Lose yourself in the wonder of Barter Books

Barter Books in Alnwick
Barter Books combines the beauty of old architecture with second-hand books.

Barter Books is much more than a second-hand bookstore. It is one of the largest second-hand bookshops in the UK. Housed in the old train station in Alnwick (pronounced An-ick) it is beautiful, has a wonderful-looking cafe and separate ice cream shop and a wonderful model railway. The collection of books is exceptional, and there is a catalogue you can search to find what you’re looking for.

2. Take a boat to the Farne Islands

The Farne Islands have been the spotlight a lot in the UK of late as they have been a hotspot for the current bird-flu pandemic (apparently birds have been falling out of the sky). Most companies advertise the boat trips with a photo of a puffin (only actually visible in June and July so the advertising is dubious). It’s probably no surprise to you then that we saw a few shags, a ganet and some ducks but otherwise not many birds. We went with Billy Shiels as we liked the 90 minute tour option.

We did however see DOLPHINS. Yup, DOLPHINS off the coast of the UK. Pretty bloody cool.

DOLPHINS

We also saw Seals but frankly in comparison to DOLPHINS they weren’t that notable.

Seals in Northumberland

3. Immerse yourself in Roman Britain

Northumberland is littered with Roman remains and as a result there are a series of wonderful museums, ruins to visit and of course the legendary Hadrians Wall (which I am walking next year).

We made just one Roman stop, to Housesteads Roman Fort which thankfully is both National Trust and English Heritage. As with many Roman sites, there isn’t a lot to see. I understand the importance of funding to maintain old sites, but if I had paid the £9.50 entry I would have felt a bit cheated, especially as the museum took all of 10 minutes to go around.

4. Alnwick Gardens

Alnwick Gardens are meticulously landscaped, varied and vast. You can gaze at the water fountain display, lose yourself in the bamboo maze or

There are also a series of interactive benches (yup) and a poison garden (only accessible by a tour). All of which make a really enjoyable afternoon out.

Lilidorei through trees
The Lilidorei climbing frame through the Christmas Trees

You also have the option to visit Lilidorei – it’s fun, but in my opinion was just a bit expensive for what it was (we paid £19.80 each) – if it had been £10 or even £15 I would put it as a must-visit, but it wasn’t quite worth the price tag.

Cost: tickets for the Garden and the Lilidori each start at £16.50, combined tickets with Lilidorei are from £29.50.

5. Alnwick Castle

Home to the Duke and Duchess of Northumberland, Alnwick Castle is better known as HOGWARTS (or some rooms in Downton Abbey). It was the site where the broomstick training in the first Harry Potter film took place and has become almost a mecca for fans of the movie.

It is, therefore, no surprise that Alnwick has monetised the life out of this – the shop is adorned with Harry Potter merchandise and you can even take a broomstick lesson at the Castle. However, if you are non-plussed about Harry Potter, there is much more to do at Alnwick Castle including a dragon experience, additional museums and fascinating artefacts.

As Alnwick features a lot on this post, if you would prefer a brief overview, I would recommend this self-guided tour of the town to take you through the day.*

6. Bamburgh Castle

Bamburgh Castle is another for the TV lovers – it is the set of the Netflix show The Last Kingdom (no, I hadn’t heard of it either). It was bought by Lord Armstrong who seems on balance like he was a good egg (and we definitely preferred the family to the Percy’s) who invented many contraptions to help servants and set up infrastructure to help the local community. He is however given the accolade of the UK’s first arms dealer, so that’s a big cross against him for me.

Bamburgh has comparatively modern decor for a Castle

There are plenty more castles which we visited including Warkworth – these were fine, but nothing compared to Bamburgh and Alnwick.

7. Treat your tastebuds to locally-caught seafood

*Locals recommendation*

The Ship Inn, Low Newton

My verdict: stunning.

Northumberland contains a series of fishing villages which makes it a perfect location for any fish lover. I was lucky enough to try three exceptional fish dishes of hake with a creamy samphire sauce, lobster and plaice topped with fresh crab.

Whilst the Ship Inn was probably my favourite of the places we ate at, the Fish Shack was also exceptional and well worth a visit.

8. Indulge in decadent cake

Cuthbert cake which is mainly found on Holy Island (no, not the Aldi imitation of the M&S classic) dates back to 635 AD. I’d never heard of it but it’s a bit like an iced flapjack but better. Honestly, it is almost worth the trip to the island itself. Apart from this local gem, Northumberland is home to many tea shops, which means a lot of excellent cake. The next most note-worthy cake shop we found was Bertrams in Warkworth. It is dog-friendly, people-friendly, delicious and makes shabby chic look simple.

If possible, pair your Northumberland cake with locally roasted and smooth-as-silk, Pilgrims Coffee. Apparently, the locally brewed tea (Northumberland Tea) is also excellent, but I could not be parted from the coffee.

9. Go Star Gazing in Northumberland National Park

Northumberland National Park is a rare Dark Sky area which means the view of the stars is spectacular.

the aurora from Northumberland Park
Long exposure camera lens meant I saw the Aurora

You can just fill up your thermos, grab your binoculars, download the stellarium app and park by the roadside to see what is on offer. Or if like us know your limitations, you can visit the Dark Sky Observatory and they’ll guide you through what you’re looking at.

As someone who can barely spot Orion’s Belt, I’m glad we went to the observatory. They showed us Saturn and Jupiter through the telescope, we saw shooting stars and they explained to me how I hadn’t found a new type of jumping star, but I wasn’t holding the binoculars properly.

10. Visit Holy Island (not an Island) and the ruined abbey

Lindisfarne is a weird division between that owned by the National Trust and that owned by English Heritage. Due to the tide times (and being stuck behind a hay bale on the journey to the island), we explored Lindisfarne Priory but didn’t make it to the castle. The Priory has an excellent museum that talks you through the history of religion on the island and the ruins are so precisely carved, that its difficult not to be impressed.

Cost: from £9 for adults.

11. Explore Cragside House

Cragside House in Morpeth is a jewel in the crown of the National Trust in the UK. The grounds cover 6 miles and it is advertised as the UK’s first ‘smart home’ and was owned by the Armstrong family (them again). It’s not difficult. to see their wealth and status from visiting the house. The decor is varied, stylish and captivating.

Now, Cragside is not cheap for those who are not National Trust members, but it is worth the entry fee. Not only is the house large, but the variety of things to see on the grounds including hydroelectric plants, a rock garden, numerous circular walks and an iron bridge make a whole day out.

Cost: from £22.00 during peak season, from £11.00 off-peak for adults.

12. Uncover one of Britain’s Best Beaches

Northumberland is home to an expansive and breathtaking coastline. Bamburgh is often considered to be the best in the county, and even on a brisk windy day, the sand dunes and blue sea were stunning.

We also explored Seahouses Beach and Embleton Bay, which not quite on the scale of Bamburgh were still worth the visits alone.

*This post contains affiliate links, if you use one to make a purchase, I will get a small commission at no cost to you. Please note, I only link to things I have done and would do again.

Cragside Castle
the bay in Amble

A weekend in Scarborough

48 hours in Britain’s first seaside town

Scarborough is a classic British seaside town with a varied history and makes the perfect weekend break for those who love British history. The town was founded in 966AD as Skarðaborg by Thorgills Skarthi but there is evidence of settlers thousands of years before this.

The iconic Scarborough Castle was fortified by Henry II and was a battle location during the English Civil War, where the town sided with the Royalists (not surprising if you see the number of tributes to the Royal family across the town).

The subject of the famous song ‘Scarborough Fair’ was founded in the thirteenth century and was not the funfair many think of today when they hear the song but an opportunity for merchants to gather and trade.

In the Seventeenth Century minerals were discovered in the water in Scarborough and the spa was established, which bought tourism to the town and earned it the accolade of Britain’s “first seaside town”.

Like all good towns in Yorkshire, it has a strong link to the Bronte family with Anne Bronte’s grave located in a beautiful churchyard overlooking the North Bay.

During the Second World War Scarborough provided a number of small boats to the Dunkirk effort and is rightly incredibly proud of this contribution it made to the war effort.

Nowadays, Scarborough brings to life the divisions in British society in a way that really hits you. The wonderful Clark’s restaurant serves locally-sourced, gourmet food. The plethora of holiday homes keep the local economy going but have caused significant housing issues for locals as they have priced many into cramped accommodation or out of the market altogether. The high street is littered with closed shops, yet the seafront is thriving.

We had the most wonderful weekend in Scarborough earlier in the year, this is what we did (or watched) and hopefully will help you make the most of your visit.

Day one: an afternoon at the beach

It’s best to drive to Scarborough if possible as the public transport connections aren’t great. Our journey was full of all the usual joys you experience when braving the motorway over a bank holiday weekend. The only thing more stressful than the motorway traffic was working out the parking restrictions in Scarborough (and looking at the seagull shit that was about to hit the car).

TIP: have a car wash booked for when you get back from Scarborough.

We stayed at the Breakwaters which was one minute from the Harbour and was excellent: would recommend to anyone!

First stop: Ice Cream at Flamingo Bay

As with all good seaside resorts, there is no shortage of ice cream in Scarborough. We were recommended other places, but Flamingo Bay was too good just to walk past. It was beautifully decorated and had a queue (which I often take as a good sign). The real clincher however was the number of different flavours of whippy ice cream on offer alongside the boasted about gelato.

whippy ice cream in a sprinkle cone with a flake and waffle

Whippy ice cream is my favourite, above gelato which is often believed to be more gourmet. Not in my book. I had a coffee whippy ice cream and oh. my. goodness.

Not far from Flamingo Bay is #thehistorybox (literally history in a red phone box) a mural to Scarborough Fair – its worth the few steps along the beach to learn a little more about it.

Second stop: paddle in the sea at South Bay

The perfect accompaniment to soft ice cream always has and always will be sandy toes. Luckily the South Bay in Scarborough is a smooth sand dune waiting to be explored. Even on a misty afternoon in mid-April when we visited the water was not too cold and it was perfect for paddling.

South Bay Beach in Scarborough with two people on it.

The South Bay beach has historic significance – it was the site of the original medieval settlement and leads up to the Old Town.

The smooth shorefront of South Bay Beach is framed with classic beach shops, each willing to sell you a bucket and spade or a body board. Perfect for a weekend trip.

Stop three: Embrace your inner child at one of the amusement arcades

The cluster of amusement arcades on the beachfront in Scarborough will transport you back to your childhood. The neon lights make you feel as if you are abroad and the pure assault on your senses will likely give you a headache but also a high!

playing ball at scarborough ammusement arcade

We loved the 2p shuffle machines and the basketball loops and won a load of tickets (that we didn’t manage to cash in).

Stop four: climb the cliff with the cliff lift

The UK’s oldest seaside town would not be complete without one of the oldest cliff lifts in the country: it was built in 1875 (a history of the cliff lift can be found here). The lift runs from 9.30 in the morning until the evening (times change by day) and it is £1.40 for a one-way ticket.

The top of the cliff gives you breathtaking views and a wonderful restaurant which I still cannot stop thinking about.

Stop five: Dinner at Clark’s

We need to talk about Clark’s. Situated at the top of a cliff in Scarborough, tucked in an unassuming side street, this tiny independent restaurant has to be the maker of one of the best meals I have eaten all year. Inspired by Yorkshire, and sourcing much of its produce locally, Clark’s is one of those restaurants that has a small menu based on quality seasonal ingredients. It doesn’t overshoot, it just does things very well. For example, the bread and butter appeared simple but the butter had been mixed with seaweed which bought out the flavour and really transformed the dish.

Bread basket at Clarks
Starter of Squid at Clarks
White Fish and Samphire

Day two: stretch your legs and take in stunning coastline views.

Stop one: Walk the Cleveland Way

Scarborough cuts across two sections of the Cleveland Way. We walked from Robin Hoods Bay to Scarborough Castle (there is a whole separate post on that here) and from Scarborough Bay to Filey. We chose the Robin Hoods Bay section as it was much simpler from a public transport perspective.

Yorkshire Coast Cleveland Way

Even if you just do a little bit of the Cleveland Way, it will probably take up most of your day. You can rock up at the Ravenscar National Trust car park and do a 5-8 mile loop.

Stop two: Enjoy a dinner of traditional British Fish and Chips

Like whippy ice cream, plastic bucket and spades, and seagulls shitting on your car, no trip to the seaside is complete without a large portion of Fish and Chips. Scarborough has a number of places to get your hit. We stumbled across the unassuming ‘Leeds Fisheries’.

It looked terrible and my low expectations were lowered when the owners were rude. It seemed an inconvenience that I wanted to pay by card or to be honest, that I wanted to buy anything from them. A guest in the cafe was sighed at for leaving a tip via card payment. You had to pay for wooden forks.

Why didn’t I find somewhere else? I was bloody tired. We had walked about 18 miles up and down cliffs, I was knackered and frankly, the food could have been terrible and I would have devoured it all.

Well shoot me down. It was magnificent. And not because we were starving, but it was actually good. To the point everything else became a charming tale rather than a reason to not visit.

Day three: history-fest!

No trip for me is complete without a dive into the history of a place and thankfully Scarborough has plenty of it to offer.

Stop one: Visit Anne Bronte’s Grave

One of the quicker stops of the trip is Anne Bronte’s Grave. Positioned with stunning views over the North Bay, it is far more understated than you would expect for someone who has contributed so much to global literature.

Anne Bronte's Grave
St Mary's Church Scarborough

Stop two: Scarborough Castle

Before heading home, Scarborough Castle is a must-visit. The ruins of the castle can be seen for miles and provide a journey through time which will satisfy those of every age. Entry to the castle starts at £8.50 and it is always packed with events being put on by the owners, English Heritage. One of the best overviews of the history of Scarborough Castle is from this blog which goes into a lot more depth than the official website.

Save this for later

a weekend in Scarborough
weekend in scarborough

Brightlingsea, Essex: a day trip to a Cinque Port

What is a Cinque Port?

The Cinque Ports (pronounced SINK) first came together in order to render Ship Service to the English Crown in return for valuable privileges such as tax concessions, during late Saxon or early Norman times. The closest parallel to a modern institution is the Navy.

The name “Cinque Port” comes from the French word for five, reflecting the fact there were originally five ports in the network.

The head of a Cinque Port is one of the oldest official jobs in the UK and for hundreds of years it was one of the most powerful. Records vary as to when the first Lord Warden (head of Cinque Ports) was appointed, some say it was in 11th Century, some say it was Edward I who appointed the first Lord Warden in the 13th century to enable Crown control of the Cinque Ports.

Cinque Port Warehouse Brightlingsea

The original five Cinque Ports were in Kent and Sussex: Sandwich, Romney, Dover, Hythe and Hastings. Rye and Winchelsea also got a mention. Their naval service was last called upon in 1596, to meet the threat of the Spanish Armada. They still had some privileges until the mid 19th Century, but now as with so many things in the UK, it’s a ceremonial designation.

Few of their ancient rights and privileges survive, but the Confederation continues to promote public awareness of the proud history and seafaring traditions of communities which played a key role in the early development of Great Britain as a naval and economic superpower.

Why am I talking about Brightlingsea?

Brightlingsea was a bit of an unexpected gem. Yes the company likely helped, but I loved how quiet, clean and full of history and character the town was. Plus it made me learn about Cinque Ports and now I want to visit them all. One of the interesting things about Brightlingsea is it is an outlier in the Cinque Port set and for this reason doesn’t always appear on an official list.

How do you get to Brightlingsea?

Brightlingsea is on the mouth of the River Colne which is tidal and salt water. It is best accessed by Car – it is about 35 minutes away from the M25 (Thurrock/ Lakeside Exit). By train, it’s on the line from London Liverpool Street by going to Colchester, Wivenhoe or Alresford and getting a taxi. It’s probably, for this reason, it has not become a victim of over-tourism.

What is there to do in Brightlingsea?

Not loads, but enough for a day trip.

Walk along the promenade and go for a dip at high tide

Brightlingsea Harbour

The harbour at Brightlingsea provides a beautiful and flat walk. It is not enormous but it is a wonderful way to sweep away the cobwebs and the beach huts that line the route give a quirky backdrop as you meander. You can also swim in the harbour at high tide and bring a paddleboard or kayak for a splash about. There is also a small port further down past the marina.

Learn about Cinque Ports

Cinque Port Sign Brightlingsea

Possibly no surprise given the title of the post, but there are loads of opportunities to learn about Cinque Ports at Brightlingsea – with signs and information littered around the town.

Indulge in Afternoon Tea

Afternoon tea

Need I say any more? This indulgent feast included apple pastries, a chocolate tarte, salmon sandwiches, and of course an obligatory scone (cream first). It was from the Olive Room (so independent and popular with locals it has no online presence beyond this story in local press).

Browse local artists at Randall Framing & Gallery

Randall Framing and Gallery is a wonderful way to spend half an hour or so browsing the goods from local artists and seeing the wonderful collection of film posters. It’s hard not to spend money there, as from postcards to paintings there is something for most budgets.

Learn about the town history at Brightlingsea Museum

Brightlingsea Museum is one of those local ones that I LOVE. It covers all elements of the town history, including shipbuilding and oyster fishing. It is free to visit and run by locals who are all passionate about Brightlingsea.

Have you been to Brightlingsea? What have I missed?

boats in brightlingsea
Brightlingsea harbour

Phone snatching in London

Save this guide – it’s one of the most common crimes in London, and one of the most annoying to solve. This is my based on experience guide for how to solve this challenge.

What is it? How to avoid it, what to do if it happens

This is one of those posts which I hate to write. However, personal experience caught up with me and I became a victim of an increasingly common crime: phone snatching. It’s especially common near tube stations and near pedestrian crossings.

I’ll be honest, I’d become quite complacent. I’ve worked in central London for 8 years and never had a problem. Probably linked to never having anything worth stealing before, but still.

Phone snatching has soared in the last two years, with Southwark and Camden boroughs current (2023) hotspots. It’s estimated by the metropolitan police that a phone is taken every six minutes in London, that’s 240 phones a day. Some of the tabloids have labeled it an epidemic. I’m not sure I would go that far, but it’s certainly more common than you’d like to think. You can find the official met police guidance here.

I hope you won’t need this, but if you’re traveling to London, do print it or bookmark it.

What is phone snatching?

It is very much what it sounds like. Young usually men, cycling on push or electric bikes, dressed all in black with their faces covered, will approach you from behind and take the phone out of your hands. The uniform they wear is designed so you cannot tell their age, ethnicity or really anything about them that might help the police find them. It’s a major problem for the met.

These crimes are most common after 6pm when people who work in the city are making their way home and often scrolling whilst walking (a pet peeve of mine) or trying to call an Uber.

The snatchers quite literally do loops of areas they know commuters or more affluent tourists would congregate, looking for decent phones that can be sold on the black market. My colleague has hers snatched at the same spot as me and hers has ended up on the other side of the world.

These are usually non-violent attacks, but they shake you nonetheless. The police guidance is clear – don’t chase after the snatchers or try to confront them – this is where it could get dangerous.

How to avoid phone snatching

To put it bluntly, the best way to avoid your phone being snatched is not to be using your smartphone on a street corner in central London and not to text whilst walking as you’re much less alert. I usually don’t text and walk, but mine was snatched when I was stopped at a crossing opposite Southwark Station sending the “I’m on my way home” text.

As a tourist who relies on phone maps, it can be easier said than done not to use it, but try not to if you’re in a hotspot.

The snatchers are targetting higher quality phones, so if you know you’ll have it out either bringing an old phone with you to London or have a case that includes a strap.

On the subject of cases, I would avoid one that has a wallet attached. The contactless payment limit is £100 in the UK so with your debit card someone could do a lot of damage in a short period of time.

Things you can do to make your life easier if it happens

If you’re a UK resident, register your phone on immobilise.com – UK insurers will ask you to do this to process your claim and ensure your phone is registered with your insurance company before you travel (or as soon as you get the shiny new device).

This may seem obvious, but have phone insurance or if you’re a visitor check a phone is covered on your travel insurance. My insurance for example only covers phones less than 7 inches tall – which is fine for me, but it’s an exclusion to be aware of. Equally, register your phone on the insurance when you get it. This will save you a lot of hassle.

Have your IMEI number written down and left in your hotel – you’ll need this should anything happen. You can find it by dialing *#06# on your phone. Not having it written down can cause you all forms of problems as in the case of theft, your insurers will need proof that it was that handset that was in use at the time it was taken – and your network provider will have this information.

Think about what’s activated. For example, biometric approval minimises the risk of your apps like online banking being raided. Equally, Find My iPhone or Android Device Manager can help the police locate your phone (and possibly a stash of phones belonging to other people).

What do you need to do if your phone is snatched?

The aim of these snatches is to get phones to wipe and sell on. In the main, they are less bothered about getting into your phone and using your apps. That said, the amount of personal information means acting quickly is key.

Find a computer or another way to get online

If you are travelling solo in London, many hotels have computers you can use equally libraries will likely help you. It’s a feature of modern London that either of these is easier to find than a police counter.

Disable Apple/ Google Pay

Apple users can log onto their account through https://www.icloud.com/find and mark their device as lost. Android users can do the same through https://www.android.com/find.

This will automatically remove the mobile payment ability from the lost device and will give you the option to remotely wipe the phone. If you mark it as lost, even if you do not wipe it, it prevents others from being able to.

Get your IMEI number

Your IMEI number is the unique identifier for your handset. Every GSM phone has one. It is this number that allows networks to block your phone and if the police find your phone, this can help them reunite you with it.

You can find your IMEI number in a number of ways, if you have the phone it’s the *#06#. Which is all well and good if you have your phone.

If you don’t (like I didn’t) you can find it on an online portal where your phone is registered (where immobilise comes in handy) or on the box it came in.

For Apple users, if you have an iPad or Mac with iOS 10.3 or later that’s signed in to your Apple ID, you can go on that device, go to Settings > [Your name]. Scroll down to see any devices signed in with your Apple ID. To view the serial and IMEI/MEID number, tap the device name., it’s in the settings on your profile. Note, you cannot register a phone with the police or with the insurance company without an IMEI number.

Report it to the Metropolitan Police.

The easiest way to report a stolen phone in London is online. It’s a really simple process, but it is only in English and does require a little knowledge of where you were and recall of the time when it happened.

The police will call you for more information, so you will need to be able to give the phone number of a friend, family member or the hotel where you are staying. They are super used to dealing with this crime, so it will be efficient. You will need an email address as they will use this to send you a crime number. You need this for the insurance claim.

Do not call 999 for this. It will not be considered an emergency and no-one will thank you.

There are a limited number of police front desks in London, but they are not all open 24/7.

Get your phone blocked

Contact your mobile phone operator and ask them to cancel your sim card and send a new one- this can be done via online chat on your portal (i.e. MyEE). Now, this is not easy when your phone has been taken as some information they may ask you for, such as the last bill amount or your bank account number, if you are like me, might be behind a multi-factor ID portal which you cannot access without your phone. If you are coming to London, have this information stored somewhere separate to your phone and safe (i.e. in your hotel safe).

When you register your phone to be blocked, you also need to ask for proof of blacklisting and proof of use. You need both of these for your insurance company.

Kick-start your insurance claim

Once you have your proof of use, proof of disbarment, and crime number you can register your insurance claim. Some companies need more information than others, but because this is so prevalent in London they do really rigorous checks on claims.

My claim was rejected at first as EE didn’t actually register my phone as blacklisted despite sending the letter saying they had. This was pretty stressful but shows how rigorous you need to be.

Request a new SIM Card

Most UK-based providers have shops on every high street. You can go in and get a new sim for a UK number with proof of ID (passport or driving license) on the spot. You can also order a SIM through your network online provider or by phoning customer service (if you have another phone!).

Ensure you know how to activate your new sim when it arrives – EE has a preference for texting you a code to the old sim. It took me quite a long time to explain to them why that wouldn’t work. If you really talk to them they can do it remotely but it is a faff.